Green claims: 20 consumer watchdogs write open letter to fashion and textile sector

A total of 20 consumer watchdogs have signed off on a letter calling for the standardisation of requirements for green claims. The letter, which can be read on the website of the International Consumer Protection and Enforcement Network (ICPEN), includes signatories from the consumer watchdogs of the Netherlands, Sweden, Norway, Turkey, Spain, Poland, France and Hungary.

The watchdogs hope that the standard will be raised when it comes to making green claims. “National laws may differ, but this letter emphasises that the same basic principles apply to companies in many different countries.”

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These basic principles are: ensure that claims are fair, clear and accurate; have enough evidence to support the claim; avoid the use of vague and general terms; and do not focus on future wishes, but focus on measures that have already been taken to achieve goals.

Furthermore, the letter states that the watchdogs are calling for self-made certificates to be avoided. “ICPEN members have seen an increase in environmental labels created by the company itself or external parties. Certificates must give an accurate impression of the environmental impact of the product. If this is not the case, the use of such a label is a misleading claim.” ICPEN also indicates that certificates are sometimes used for marketing an entire product, while the certificate is only valid for a part of the product.

Criticism is also being voiced on the use of a ‘sustainable’ filter in online shops. As the conditions of this filter are often unclear, consumers may get the impression that products are better than they are. ICPEN recommends, for example, converting the filter to specific certificates or to, for example, "at least 50 percent recycled material".

ICPEN and the signatories of the letter indicate that they are open to discussions with brands and stakeholders who want to discuss the content of the letter.

At European level, work is being done on the Green Claims Directive. The exact legislation is still being tightened and will not come into effect until 2027 at the earliest. Misleading environmental claims are being tackled with the Green Claims Directive and the EU is appointing national watchdogs to enforce it. If a company is found to be in violation of the guidelines, a fine of at least 4 percent of annual turnover can be imposed.