Munich Fabric Start & Bluezone: SS26 trends between sustainability, safety and risk

In a world full of contradictions, the trend themes of the fabric collections for spring/summer 2026 also move between extremes. On the one hand, there are classic designs that focus on security and essential basics. On the other hand, it's all about striking looks that celebrate individuality and uniqueness. In addition, another important theme plays a major role: the sustainable transformation of textile production, fully in line with EU guidelines.

The international fabric fair Munich Fabric Start, with its show-in-show concepts Bluezone, Keyhouse and The Source, offers 625 international exhibitors and approximately 1,200 of their collections showcasing the latest material innovations for spring/summer 2026, accompanied by an extensive programme of lectures on current themes in the textile and fashion industry. As in previous years, this schedule primarily revolves around the theme of sustainability and how the industry can successfully implement existing and future EU legislation. The deadlines for new EU laws are, after all, getting closer and closer. The year 2030 is an important stepping stone on the way to net-zero in 2050, in which important goals must be achieved.

Trends: A play between risky non-conformism and safe basics

In addition to the new fabrics for summer 2026, the theme of cost control played a leading role at the trade fair. "You notice that the industry is uncertain," says a designer who wishes to remain anonymous. "Fewer and fewer brands are investing in creativity; everyone just wants basics and safety." At the same time, what’s performing well is precisely what is not basic, but surprising and brings joy. But that is inherently difficult to plan.

This contradiction is also reflected in the trend zones of Munich Fabric Start, which, on the one hand, with trend themes such as "Unorthodox", "Limitless" or "Not Reproducible", focus on individually curated looks, radical style breaks, wild pattern mixes and everything surprising, and on the other, with trend themes such as "Lasting", "Emotional Heritage", "From the Archive" or "Timeless Modernity", celebrate classic colours, patterns and contrasts. Trend forecasting is becoming increasingly difficult in general, as fast-fashion providers such as Shein immediately copy any trend, whether it’s from the catwalk or street style.

In denim, street styles still set the tone. "I think the super-oversized silhouette will stay longer," says Tilmann Wröbel, designer and owner of Monsieur-T. Denim Lifestyle Studio, who designed the trend zones at Bluezone and gave the trend lecture. While standard fashion is also struggling in the denim sector, the industry is looking for ways to stand out without taking big risks. Important impulses are therefore coming from exciting collaborations, such as Levi's with Lego or Diesel with Coca-Cola.

"Reconstruct" is another trend theme for denim, visually reminiscent of upcycling, but playing with iconic brand markings. Wröbel also sees opportunities for denim brands from the 2000s, which are now ripe for a revival. True Religion is a good example of this. This also fits with the theme of second-hand, the appeal of which continues to grow, simply because it is not reproducible. Wröbel talks about the Parisian brand Coperni, which sent second-hand items down the catwalk alongside its own collection. "Five to ten years ago, it would have been unthinkable that second-hand items would be as fashion-relevant as new items and have the same status."

Denim supplier Isko, for example, is showcasing new looks with its new Multitouch collection in Munich. Using only heat, fabrics can be given very different effects, such as pleats or embossed patterns. "Designers want more possibilities with one and the same fabric," explains Keith O'Brien of Isko. The Isko Luxury by PG collection was also typically opulent, featuring, for example, checks and other patterns woven with real silver thread.

Denim: New technologies to reduce resource consumption

The denim industry, in particular, has developed many new technologies in recent years that reduce the ecological footprint of denim, from the use of recycled fibres to waterless dyeing processes. Further innovations in the field of dyeing were presented by the companies Sonovia Tech from Israel and Synovance from France. Sonovia's dyeing technology is based on ultrasound and works entirely without toxic chemicals and with 85 percent less water. Sonovia requires only one dye bath, which saves energy and reduces the complexity of the dyeing process and ultimately the costs. "This technology will revolutionise denim production," Annabelle Evenhaime of Sonovia is convinced. The technology is already working on an industrial scale and will be implemented in at least five locations this year, including in collaboration with Kering.

The method of the French biotech company Synovance is based on the biological replication of the denim dye indigo through genetic research. In contrast to synthetic dyeing processes, which are based on petroleum as a raw material and are mainly used today, this dyeing method does not involve any dangerous chemical reactions with many toxic intermediates. The dye is still more expensive than synthetic dye, "but in five to six years, we want to be at the point where we can compete with the prices of synthetic indigo," says Efthimia Lioliou, co-founder and COO of Synovance. "We believe that in ten years, biologically produced dyes will be the standard option for most textile applications."

Nearshoring of denim: Is it an alternative?

The supply chains in the global textile and clothing industry have been repeatedly put to the test in recent years. With the inauguration of US President Donald Trump, concerns about the future development of global production routes are increasing again. Under the motto "Blue made in the EU", industry insiders discussed how the denim supply chain could be strengthened again in Europe, as it still exists: from European cotton cultivation (in Greece and Spain) to spinning mills, weaving mills, dye houses and laundries.

Moreover, Europe has a lot of know-how that helps the industry on its way to more sustainability. For example, the renowned Italian denim weaver Candiani has developed a material made of 70 percent post-consumer yarn and 30 percent regenerative cotton, which is nevertheless robust and durable. "We have to orient ourselves towards the automotive industry," says Stefano Tessarolo of finishing specialist Jeanologia, which reduces costs and increases efficiency through automation and digitalisation, enabling it to operate in Europe.

In addition, a European supply chain facilitates transparency. George Kitas of Nafpaktos Textile Industry from Greece works closely with local cotton farmers and can offer local businesses full transparency and traceability. Future legislation can help here, the consensus is, if it is implemented. "77 percent of the products sold in Europe were imported," says Simon Giuliani of Candiani. "All of that should actually be produced according to the same EU guidelines as domestic products, but that is not being checked."

New materials for the circular economy

The circular economy has become an integral part of the design and production process - no longer just in theory, but also in practice. Numerous start-ups, institutes and established companies presented their solutions for closing material cycles in the future. In addition to new recycled fibres and fibre blends, more and more companies are also dedicating themselves to the question of how conditions in companies can be improved to promote the transformation. The recently launched, three-year, subsidised project "Retrakt" by DTB and RWTH Aachen University is investigating how sustainability can be integrated into business processes. The German outdoor brand Ortovox and the Japanese fabric supplier Toray are participating as partner companies.

"We want to investigate what setting is needed and which management tools are useful to comply with textile legislation," explains Nicole Espey of RWTH Aachen University. The Texroad Foundation from the Netherlands, in turn, is working on generating data for the post-consumer recycling market. "We ask very simple questions," says Traci Kinden, founder of Texroad, meaning, for example: How many goods are collected where? How much of it can be reused as second-hand, how much is shipped, what is recycled, how much waste is generated? "This information is very important for transparency, but also, for example, to determine locations for recycling plants or to find out what data is needed for the digital product passport to simplify recycling," says Kinden. Due to a number of recycling scandals, many people have become distrustful of textile recycling in recent years. "More transparency in the recycling chain would restore trust."

This article previously appeared on FashionUnited.DE. This article was translated by Rachel Douglass with the help of an AI tool.

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