Fall/Winter 2026/27 Trend Report: Redirection, Radicality and Regeneration

I. Introduction & Overview

Executive Summary
The Fall/Winter 2026/27 season marks a pivotal moment of "Redirection," a theme identified as the defining sentiment for the industry. As the fashion sector navigates a poly-crisis of environmental instability, geopolitical tension, and technological acceleration (specifically AI), the consumer mindset is bifurcating. We are witnessing a simultaneous retreat into protective, restorative comfort and a surge towards radical, expressive dissent.

This report synthesises intelligence from major forecasting bodies—including WGSN, Première Vision, Future Snoops, Heuritech and renowned forecasters Lidewij Edelkoort and Jan Agelink—to present a cohesive roadmap. The overarching mood is one of seeking a "Certificate of Authenticity." As noted by the German Fashion Institute (DMI) appearance must now align with reality; slick storytelling is being replaced by raw, verifiable provenance.

For the fashion executive, AW26/27 is not about chasing fleeting micro-trends, which data indicates are declining among Gen Z. Instead, it is about investing in "Imaginative Intelligence"—using creativity to solve functional problems—and preparing for a post-streetwear landscape where "conventional" codes are remastered with surrealist and protective edges.

II. Core Trend Narratives for FW26

These three narratives represent the primary consumer psychological drivers that will shape purchasing behaviour.

II. Core Trend Narratives for FW26

Based on a comprehensive analysis of the source material—integrating the four-pillar framework from Fashion Snoops with the specific thematic insights from WGSN, Première Vision, and Lidewij Edelkoort—four distinct narratives emerge for the season.

Narrative One: Radical Dissent & Dystopian Glamour

(The reaction to instability through gothic rebellion and protective armour)

Core Concept
This narrative represents the industry's most visceral reaction to the "poly-crisis." Identified by Première Vision as "New Dynasties" and Future Snoops as "Tough & Tender," this trend rejects the status quo through a lens of dark romanticism and aggressive protection. It is a visual manifesto of disenchantment, reviving counter-cultural codes from 1970s punk and 1990s goth but elevating them with a couture sensibility. Lidewij Edelkoort describes this shift as a move toward "armour," noting that in threatening times, fashion becomes defensive and "almost bulletproof." It is not merely aesthetic; it is a shield against a chaotic world, characterized by radical silhouettes that distort the body and demand space.

Cultural Drivers
The primary driver is a fascination with "dystopian universes" and "phantasmagoria" (WGSN), fueled by a sense of global instability. Pop culture reinforces this, with the continued influence of the Wednesday series and the revival of gothic cinema (Nosferatu, Beetlejuice) driving the "Goth Girl" trend. Edwin van den Hoek notes a "Dramatic" theme where historical looks meet "Black Dandyism," while the "Manosphere" influences a harder, "Competitive" edge in menswear, utilizing motorcycle and F1 references to project strength.

Target Consumer
The "Resilient Rebel" and the luxury "New Dynasty" consumer. This includes Gen Z consumers driving the +85% increase in gothic jewellery (Klarna) and high-end buyers seeking investment pieces that offer psychological protection and distinctiveness.

Visual Mood Board

• Palette: "Intensified Darks"—deep garnet reds, petroleum blues, and shadowy greens that refresh classic black.
• Key Items: Sculptural, floor-sweeping coats; corsetry (for all genders); fishnet bodysuits; and "flame effect" denim that looks scorched.
• Textures: A clash of "Tough & Tender"—bruised silks, lace, and velvet juxtaposed with distressed leather, chainmail, and latex.
• Styling: "Armour-like" layering, sharp make-up with bioluminescent pigments, and hardware.

Narrative Two: Ego-Eco & The Architecture of Care

(Merging ecology with mental health for a restorative sanctuary)

Core Concept
Moving beyond standard sustainability, this narrative links environmental regeneration directly to human health. Termed "Ego-Eco" by Première Vision and "Still Power" by Fashion Snoops, it posits that personal well-being is inextricable from planetary health. This is fashion designed as a "sensory shell" to soothe the nervous system. The focus is on "Sensory Stillness" (Jan Agelink) and "Restorative Comfort" (WGSN), utilizing biomimicry—learning from nature’s engineering—to create materials that are safe, non-toxic, and physically comforting. It represents a retreat from the digital noise of urban life into a "bio-regenerative" sanctuary.

Cultural Drivers
The mental health crisis and "loneliness epidemic" are driving a desire for physical comfort and tactile reassurance. WGSN highlights the "City Prepper" mindset—consumers adapting to unpredictable climate patterns ("Geo-logic") and urban stress by demanding wardrobes that function as mobile cocoons. There is a shift from "sustainability" (doing less harm) to "regeneration" (repairing the environment), driven by biotech innovations like algae dyes and bio-sourced synthetics.

Target Consumer
The "Wellness Pragmatist" and the "City Prepper." This consumer values performance, adaptability, and non-toxic ingredients. They are professionals seeking "Tech-minimal" elegance—anti-luxury fused with high performance—to navigate the commute and the home environment seamlessly.

Visual Mood Board

• Palette: Anchored by Transformative Teal (Colour of the Year), alongside "Wax Paper" (a calming yellow-white), terracotta, and soft peach.
• Key Items: "Mobile cocoon" coats with large privacy hoods; anatomical quilting; double-faced wool layers; "off-season" adaptable basics.
• Textures: "Fluffy" and hairy textures (alpaca, mohair) that mimic animal warmth; bio-sourced synthetics with a soft hand-feel; matte, water-repellent finishes.
• Styling: Pulling collars up and hoods down for anonymity; layering soft knits under technical shells.

Narrative Three: Imaginative Play & Surrealist Flux

(Combating digital perfection with humour, weirdness, and joy)

Core Concept
As a counter-movement to AI-generated perfection and algorithmic sameness, this narrative champions "Imaginative Intelligence" (Jan Agelink) and "Empowered Play" (WGSN). It posits that "imagination will be the new luxury." This trend is not about utility or tradition; it is about sparking joy, surprise, and "Functional Flair" (Future Snoops). It embraces the strange, the "kidult" (adults seeking childlike wonder), and the surreal. It disrupts the seriousness of the industry by injecting humour into design—whether through trompe l'oeil, alien-like accessories, or "jarring pairings" that make no logical sense but evoke an emotional response.

Cultural Drivers
The "Kidult" phenomenon is a key driver, with adults purchasing toys and seeking "play" as a form of therapy. There is a fatigue with the "clean girl" and "quiet luxury" aesthetics, leading to a desire for "Jarring Pairings" and "Phantasmagoria." Consumers are seeking a dopamine hit from their wardrobe to counteract the "polycrisis." Technology also plays a role here, not as a tool for efficiency, but as a tool for fantasy (e.g., 3D printed accessories, digital-physical hybrid aesthetics).

Target Consumer
The "Expressive Individualist" and the "Sophisticated Kidult." This consumer uses fashion as a form of escapism and identity play. They are early adopters of "weird" silhouettes (like the bubble hem or barrel leg) and are not afraid of colour or irony.

Visual Mood Board

• Palette: "Disruptive" accents including Green Glow (bio-luminescent yellow-green), Electric Fuchsia, and Fresh Purple.
• Key Items: The bubble hem dress; "Country Club" sweatshirts with ironic graphics; 3D printed accessories; garments with unexpected volume or "wrong" proportions.
• Textures: High-shine synthetics, "jelly" textures, mixed media (fabric blocking), and experimental knits.
• Styling: "Jarring Pairings"—mixing heritage volume with streetwear, or gym shorts with blazers; "Clowncore" influences refined for luxury

Narrative Four: The Renaissance of Real & New Conventional

(The return to conventional codes, heritage, and verified authenticity)

Core Concept
In the wake of "fake news" and AI ubiquity, authenticity has become the ultimate currency. DMI terms this the search for a "Certificate of Authenticity." This narrative sees the death of hype-driven streetwear ("the sneaker became the moccasin," notes Edelkoort) and a return to "Conventional" codes—blazers, shirts, and workwear—but executed with impeccable provenance and construction. Future Snoops calls this "Future Heritage." It is about "Modern Traditionalism" where the garment’s value lies in its reality, its material origin (Wool, Cotton), and its longevity rather than its virality.

Cultural Drivers
"AI Fatigue" and the internet acting as a "lie detector" (DMI) have made consumers skeptical of manufactured brand stories. They crave "roots" and "truth." There is also a "Workwear" revival (Edelkoort), driven by a desire for practical, durable clothing that "works" in a literal sense. The economic climate pushes consumers toward "investment pieces" that won't date, leading to a revival of the suit and the "Modern Heritage" aesthetic.

Target Consumer
The "Modern Traditionalist" and the "Conscious Investor." This buyer checks the tag for "100% Wool" or "Regenerative Cotton." They are moving away from logos toward texture and cut, seeking "Bold New Classics" that serve as a reliable uniform.

Visual Mood Board

• Palette: A massive return to Grey (styled monotonously) and Cocoa Powder (brown as the new black). "Elevated Taupe" and bronze add richness.
• Key Items: The slouchy double-breasted suit; the "Boyfriend Coat"; the Moccasin; the heavy knit turtleneck; the "Workwear" jacket with functional loops.
• Textures: Heritage fabrics (tweed, herringbone, corduroy); rigid denim; "hairy" wools; suede (forecasted +45% growth).
• Styling: "Grey on Grey" layering; "Workwear as Luxury" (matching jacket and trousers); clean lines with a focus on silhouette and drape.

III. Product-Specific Trend Analysis

Colour Palettes

WGSN and Coloro frame the season around "Redirection," utilising colours that offer balance and stability.

• Key Colour: Transformative Teal
  • Selected as the Colour of the Year 2026. A fluid fusion of blue and green, it champions an Earth-first mindset. It is restorative, calming and commercially viable across all textile substrates.

• The New Neutrals & Grounding Tones
  • Cocoa Powder: A red-toned brown that evokes nostalgia. It is positioned as a "new black" alternative, championing slowness and craft.
  • Wax Paper: A creamy, yellowish off-white described as a "diluted winter sun." It acts as a soothing neutral with a warm glow, suitable for satin weaves and romantic items.
  • Cardboard & Moss Khaki: Forest-inspired hues that are forecasted to grow by 5-6 percent, replacing harsher utility greens.

• Digital & Disruptive Accents
  • Green Glow: An emotionally charged, bio-luminescent yellow-green. It provides a "synthetic" contrast to natural materials.
  • Fresh Purple: Associated with royalty and spirituality. Used in velvet and plush fabrics to denote luxury.
  • Grey on Grey: A massive comeback for grey, styled in monochrome layers to convey rationality and chic minimalism.

Fabrics, Materials & Innovation

The material landscape is defined by "Ego-Eco" principles and a tactile demand for protection.

• The Wool Renaissance:
  • Lidewij Edelkoort predicts that "everything will be woolly." Expect a surge in alpaca, mohair, boucle and hairy textures. Wool is repositioned as a technical fibre suitable for trans-seasonal wear. The aesthetic is "animalistic," mimicking sheep skin.

• Regenerative & Bio-Tech:
  • Innovation focuses on biomimicry—observing nature to derive technical solutions. Expect bio-sourced synthetics (like EVO® from castor beans) and pigments made from algae or bacteria (Colorifix).
  • Cellulosics: A rise in circular, man-made cellulosics (Lyocell, Acetate) that avoid deforestation, offering a sustainable alternative to silk.

• Surface & Texture:
  • Suede & Leather: Heuritech data forecasts a 45 percent growth in suede. Leather surfaces shift between "velvety/rounded" and "shimmering/metallic."
  • Protective Layers: Double-faced cloths, spacer fabrics, and coated materials that feel like "armour."

• Denim Evolution:
  • "Flame Effects": Moving away from aquatic blues to rust-infused reflections, charcoal textures and burnt/ember shades.
  • "Crackled Textures": Surfaces that appear scorched or peeling, aligning with the punk narrative.

Silhouettes, Shapes & Key Items

The silhouette is shifting from oversized streetwear to architectural tailoring and protective volume.

• Womenswear:
  • The Boyfriend Coat: A successor to boyfriend jeans; oversized, dramatic, and enveloping.
  • The Bubble Hem & Drape: Heuritech forecasts a rise in draped tops and dresses (+fluidity) and the continuation of the bubble hem into winter via heavier fabrics.
  • Knits: The "Country Club Sweatshirt" and "Romantic Ruffle Blouse" (New Mod trend).
  • Key Details: Large, obscure hoods; cinched waists (a macro trend); and feather/fur trims on hemlines.

• Menswear:
  • The New Suit: Soft, slouchy double-breasted blazers. A move toward "Power Play"—tailoring as a confidence tool.
  • Shorts: A controversial but growing trend for winter, including barrel-leg shorts and "bloomer-like" models.
  • Outerwear: Heirloom aviator jackets, field jackets, and Harrington jackets.
  • Bottoms: Barrel-leg pants and baggy cargos continue, but with cleaner lines.

• Gender-Fluidity:
  • The corset is recontextualized as a masculine torso item; skirts and shorts appear in menswear.

Prints, Patterns & Graphics

• Reptile over Leopard: While animal print remains relevant, Heuritech data indicates a 54 percent growth in reptile and crocodile skin patterns, often in dark hues like brown and burgundy.
• Geometric Play: Polka Dots are surging. "Big dots" (Dalmatian style) are forecast to grow by 115 percent, while small dots will see a 38 percent increase.
• Bucolic Shirting: Delicate floral patterns on cottons, offering a soft alternative to the classic men shirt.
• Fabric Blocking: the rise of colour-block styling and "fabric blocking"—mixing contrasting textures (e.g., suede incorporated into the knit) within a single garment.

Accessories

• Footwear: The dominance of the sneaker is ending. The key items are Moccasins, loafers and structured boots.
• Jewellery: Driven by the "Goth Girl" trend, demand for silver is high. Klarna reports massive spikes in cross-shaped rings (+85%), bat-shaped rings, and cross earrings.
• Tech-Couture: 3D printed accessories (e.g., alien-like finger accessories seen at Walter Van Beirendonck) appeal to the "Imaginative Intelligence" trend.

Styling Directions

• Monochromatic Layering: Styling "Grey on Grey" or "Brown on Brown" to create a uniform, grounded look.
• The "City Prepper": Layering for unpredictability—hoodies under blazers, double coats, and garments with multiple pockets and drawstrings.
• Jarring Pairings: Mixing heritage volume with streetwear edge, or "tough" leather with "tender" lace and ruffles (Future Snoops).
• Privacy Styling: pulling collars up and hoods down to obscure the face, reflecting the need for anonymity and stillness.

IV. Commercial Insights & Buyer Actionability

Retail Translation and Merchandising

Storytelling over Product:
In an era of "Certificate of Authenticity," retail spaces must communicate the origin and truth of the product. Merchandising should not just group by category but by narrative. Create zones for "Restorative Comfort" (wellness, wool, soft textures) and "Radical Expression" (leather, gothic silhouettes, sharp tailoring).
Community Engagement:
Counteract the isolation of digital shopping by organizing physical, community-focused events. As trends shift towards "offline luxury," the physical store becomes a sanctuary. Brands like Bonne Suits serve as examples of building loyalty through physical gatherings.

Pricing and Margin Considerations

The Value of "Realness":
Consumers, particularly Gen Z, are willing to pay a premium for brands they trust—those that demonstrate integrity and transparency. Retailers can justify higher price points on "Ego-Eco" products by highlighting bio-tech innovations and traceability (e.g., regenerative cottons).
Investment Pieces:
With the shift to "Conventional" and "Workwear" categories, the focus moves from high-volume, low-margin fast fashion to lower-volume, higher-margin "future heirlooms." The "Kidult" trend suggests that limited edition, imaginative items (with humour or unique craft) can command luxury margins.

Competitive Landscape Analysis

The Middle-Market Squeeze:
The market continues to bifurcate between commodity-driven fast fashion and value-driven authentic luxury. Consequently, the "middle ground"—previously occupied by brands with ambiguous identities or manufactured heritage—is becoming an untenable position.
As noted by DMI, the internet now acts as a "lie detector," rendering slick but hollow storytelling obsolete; today, a "Certificate of Authenticity" is the essential currency. To secure market share in AW26, brands must abandon vague positioning and adopt a decisive stance: either championing High-Performance Utility (catering to the ‘City Prepper’ through technical adaptability and function) or committing to Emotional Resonance (aligning with the ‘New Dynasties’ consumer seeking radical aesthetics and deep, narrative-driven meaning).

Agility vs. Consistency:
While agility is usually key, this season demands consistency in quality. Trends are slowing down; "micro-trends" are fading. Competitors winning market share will be those refining their core "DNA" (e.g., the perfect blazer, the ultimate coat) rather than chasing every TikTok aesthetic.

Pre-Order Strategy

• Timing: With the boundaries between seasons blurring (the "Off-Season" trend), buyers should increase the ratio of trans-seasonal stock. Allocate budget for lightweight wools and layered items that can sell from early Autumn through to deep Winter.
• Demand Forecasting:
  • Decrease: Open-to-buy for hoodies, graphic t-shirts, and heavy streetwear sneakers.
  • Increase: Open-to-buy for soft tailoring, knitwear (especially heavy/hairy wools), suede items and moccasins.
• Risk Mitigation:
  • Use Transformative Teal and Grey as volume drivers—these are the commercially safe anchors.
  • Test "Shorts for Winter" and "Bioluminescent/Green Glow" items in smaller capsules to gauge local appetite for the more radical trends.
  • Invest in Crocodile/Reptile textures for accessories, as data shows a strong predictive uptake compared to the saturated leopard print market.

By focusing on these key trends and strategic considerations, fashion executives can curate FW26 collections that are not only aesthetically compelling but also resonate deeply with the evolving values and desires of the modern consumer, fostering a more resilient and transparent industry.

The FW26 trend overview executive article, based on previous published articles, was written with the help of AI

FashionUnited uses AI tools to read and research large amounts of data. For this article over 10 trend articles were used. Articles created with the help of AI are checked and edited by a human desk editor prior to going online. If you have questions or comments about this process email us at info@fashionunited.com