LFW SS22: Bora Aksu

For this season’s collection, Bora Aksu presented an overload of taffeta throughout his signature exaggerated silhouettes, in a range of eccentric tea dresses and bold two-piece looks.

Within the collection, Bora Aksu offers up a striking colour scheme of bright pinks and blues among vivid greens and yellows. Layered silk taffeta lies at the centre of the selection, with the dramatic tailoring that has become Aksu’s trademark. The floral, weightless looks contrast strongly with the addition of structured jackets, trousers and trench coats, still each holding distinct silhouettes that bring together the designs.

18th Century references stem from the inspiration behind the collection Dutch socialite Mathilde Willink, with the label celebrating her exuberant soul and deeming her a ‘living work of art’. Willink, who died in 1977, was known for her extravagant style, catching the eye of Chinese-Dutch designer Fong Leng, who selected Willink as her muse.

Now used as the inspiration for Bora Aksu’s collection, the label aimed to compliment Willink’s hedonistic spirit through maximalist tailorings and explosive colourings. Knitted panels combined with excessive layering further nod to the socialite’s fashion, bringing a post-modern essence to the alternative bohemian looks.

A further 18th Century influence derives from that of antique dollhouses that generated the inspiration for Aksu’s handcrafted bags and accessories. Each item transcends Bora Aksu’s craftsmanship, with the designer aiming to ‘defy categorisation’.