PM Narendra Modi ups fashion ante for debut US visit

Narendra Modi is pulling out all the fashion stops for his upcoming visit to the United States, hiring a top Mumbai designer to create outfits that will sell his vision of a newly confident, aspirational India. India's politicians are often mocked

by media for their crumpled traditional cotton shirt-and-pyjama attire, which serves as an austerity badge in a nation where simple living is prized as a political credo. But fashion experts say Modi has taken Indian political dress to a new level with his fastidious style, favouring crisp, half-sleeved linen, khadi or silk kurtas -- shirts -- and churidar pyjamas he pairs with tailored Nehru jackets.

A former tea boy who rose to the top, Modi has embraced a look of prosperity and power, in line with his message of economic reform, and is credited with demonstrating that Indian men don't have to forego traditional wear to look well-dressed. "He's selling aspirational India," said Nilanjan Mukhopadhyay, author of one the few biographies on the leader, adding that Modi's affinity for traditional wear ties into his nationalist image.

Modi keeps keen eye on "what makes him look good"

Modi's use of colour makes him a fashion stand out -- from canary yellow, to lime green to skyblue and an in-your-face saffron, one of his ruling Bharatiya Janata Party's colours, aside from elegant cream. The move to hire Troy Costa, who designs for Bollywood stars, has given rise to speculation Modi might adopt a more sober suit and tie for his US visit.

​ But Costa, who defines his label as "focusing on modern masculinity and flattering functionality", is keeping the garment bag firmly in place over what he will design for Modi's barrel-chested frame. "I'd rather let my product speak than me personally," said the designer. "I have no vices -- I don't drink, I don't smoke, I don't love parties, I try to spend 14-to-15 hours a day working and I thank god I'm doing what love," Costa said to AFP.

GQ India editor Che Kurrien said Modi, who won his sweeping mandate in May with backing from India's young, upwardly mobile voters, had "keen eye for what makes him look good". "It's clear details matter to Mr Modi, from his designer eyewear, to his watch, to his waistcoat -- every part of his image counts," he said. Once in a while Modi likes to mix Western attire with Indian -- sporting a Texan cowboy hat for instance. But he's best known for his signature half-sleeved kurta known as the Modi Kurta -- men's kurtas are normally long-sleeved.

The tailor who refined the design, Bipin Chauhan of clothing chain Jade Blue, has trademarked the style -- with Modi's permission.

(Penelope Macrae, AFP)

Images: AFP