Research shows that if 25 percent of consumers change their behaviour, it can be enough to establish a new norm. This could also apply to fashion.

The message from Mirella Soyer, professor of behaviour for circular transitions at Rotterdam University of Applied Sciences, is clear: to achieve a circular economy, we need behavioural change.

The European Union aims for a circular economy by 2050. A circular economy is an economic system in which products, materials, and resources are reused, repaired or recycled for as long as possible. The goal is to minimize waste and drastically reduce the need for new raw materials.

More can be read about this in Soyer’s publication “Influencing Circular Behaviour - Positive Tipping Points in the Transition to a Circular Future” (in Dutch).

The publication “Influencing Circular Behaviour - Positive Tipping Points in the Transition to a Circular Future” by Mirella Soyer was published last February and can be read on the website of the Rotterdam University of Applied Sciences / Knowledge Center Business Innovation.

Copy and paste this link into your browser: https://www.hogeschoolrotterdam.nl/onderzoek/projecten-en-publicaties/pub/draaien-aan-circulair-gedrag-positieve-kantel/a64d5490-2bfb-461f-8ae7-179cb2f585ce/

From theory to practice: How does one influence circular behaviour?

Soyer has developed a new model that combines existing knowledge about sustainability and behavioural change. She explains that companies can use the model to stimulate circular behaviour - both within and outside their organisation.

Specifically, the Transcircular Behaviour Model consists of 4 steps:

• 1. The R-ladder
  The R-ladder forms the base. The model helps determine which specific circular behaviour is desirable – for example, sustainable fashion (or refusing non-sustainable textiles). “Then the interventions can be developed.”

• 2. The physical environment refers to everything in the direct, tangible context that influences behaviour. Think of accessibility, technology, affordability, availability, etc.).
  For example: if more sustainable fashion items are difficult to find or more expensive, people are less likely to choose them.

• 3. The social environment co-determines what is seen as desirable, acceptable or attractive – and thus forms a powerful tool to promote circular behavior.  Consider the use of social media such as TikTok and influencers, rewards and sanctions.

• 4. The mental environment is about beliefs, emotions, and values. “Facts rarely convince on their own,” says Soyer. Communication that connects with what moves people is more likely to encourage action.

According to the researcher, the interventions work best when they are well-coordinated.

The reality in fashion

The transition of the textile sector is a slow one. Policy programmes such as “Circular Textiles” 2025-2030 are ambitious, but much still needs to happen. The current EPR (Extended Producer Responsibility) does hold producers accountable, but in practice, recycling is still limited and reuse is difficult.

Only a fraction of discarded textiles are currently reprocessed into fibres. Recycled polyester often comes from plastic bottles, not from old clothes, and fibre-to-fibre recycling is expensive and complex. “Projects like Fibersort are innovative and promising, but large-scale application requires investors, and they are hesitant,” states Soyer.

 

Textile reuse also faces obstacles. Textile collectors have indicated that they are under great pressure. The mountain of clothing waste is growing, but the quality of donated clothing is declining. Sorting and processing costs are rising, but sales markets are shrinking.

  

  

Consumer behaviour and new norms

The aforementioned textile programme also aims for us to buy a maximum of 35 garments per year and 25 percent second hand by 2030. “The National Wardrobe Audit  shows that we are still far from that. Even conscious buyers exceed the desired wardrobe norm, partly due to the rebound effect (buying second hand or renting can be more sustainable, but sometimes lead to more consumption).”

“A colleague from the sustainable footwear industry recently said that we need to get used to the idea that things wear out,” says Soyer. “Yet people often associate decay with loss. What if we approach it from a perspective of autonomy: the realisation that we ourselves have influence over the lifespan of our belongings? Not only through washing and drying, but especially through maintenance and repair.” That could also curb our urge to buy.

  

  

Opportunities and bottlenecks

Second hand sales among retailers are growing, says Soyer, but are not always profitable. The expectation of low prices creates fierce competition from ultra fast fashion, particularly from China.

“On the production side, it is telling that when we talk about sustainable fashion brands, the same names have been mentioned for years: Mud Jeans, The New Optimist, and Joline Jolink,” says Soyer. “Many of these circular fashion brands struggle to grow – or consciously choose not to.” We need large chains like H&M and Zara. “But commercial interests and pressure from shareholders are an obstacle,” the professor explains. “Moreover, developing alternative business models requires completely different knowledge and skills.”

Bever Sport is a retail company that has made this work. The outdoor retailer offers rental, buy-back and repair services. “But the sale of new items remains the mainstay for now,” Soyer emphasizes.

Conclusion

The road to circular fashion is complex, but not impossible. Soyer emphasises the importance of action. "Many small actions together can make a big difference."

  

  

Sources:
- Interview Mirella Soyer, professor, behaviour for circular transitions and psychologist with expertise in sustainability on March 19, 2024.
- Previously published background articles by the author (also see "Also reads" section).
- An AI tool was used as a writing aid.

This article originally appeared on fashionunited.nl. It  was translated to English using an AI tool called Gemini 2.0..








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