Bridal fashion gets a modern twist

While heavy embroideries, bright colours, glitz and glamour still rule the Indian bridal fashion scene, some designers are trying to pave a way out of the clutter. They are working towards creating unique and futuristic designs using new fabrics, and styles in lighter shades. And unlike in the past, groom or men’s

fashion too in the spotlight.

The recently concluded BMW India Bridal Fashion Week (IBFW) is an example of what today’s designers think about the future of bridal and groom fashion. Though it was high on glam quotient and heavy traditional designs, designers like Falguni & Shane Peacock presented ensembles keeping the future of Indian couture in mind.

Simple and wearable designs rule

Though couture weeks in India are different from those in the West, Indian versions are primarily focused on heavy bridal fashion, which is now gradually moving towards subtle designs. The platform is used by known and new designers as well as sponsoring brands to establish presence and create brand identity.

The sixth edition of BMW IBFW 2014, which concluded on Sunday, had 10 shows by designers like Tarun Tahiliani, who opened the show and designer duo Ashima Leena, Gauri and Nainika, Falguni and Shane Peacock, Azva gold bridal jewellery show and a grand finale by JJ Valaya.

The opening shows by Tahiliani as well as duo Gauri & Nainika presented simple, non-fussy wearable ensembles without any over-the-top embroidery or bright colour pops. Tahiliani’s 'The Modern Mughals' comprised designs in three shades of gold, red and black. Models sashayed down the ramp in carefully crafted lehengas , blouses with mesh detailing, jamawar motif long jackets, kalidar kurtas , floral patterned saris and so on.

Gauri & Nainika’s modern collection for the contemporary bride had minimal design with sharp cuts and straight lines in black, white and red flaunted sexy thigh-high slits, racer backs, textured skirts and trains.

Suneet Varma’s 'The Princess of Shekhawati' was inspired by the hand-painted city of Shekhawati in Rajasthan. The line was eye-soothing and most pieces would have Punjabi brides-to-be swoon over them. A mix of subtle, range had traditional, contemporary, blingy and ethnic designs. Anarkalis, suits, saris and cocktail gowns dominated the line.

Designs for men get a new twist

Men’s wear too is increasingly getting highlighted at the couture week with designers paying a lot of attention to detail and introducing new styles for the modern day groom. Indo-western styles are increasingly gaining momentum in the country.

For the men's range, Tahiliani made use of the classic black giving a twist with unconventional shades such as pistachio, deep orange and gold. The ensembles had a stately feel to them, and included a range of kurtas , jodhpurs , dhotis and the essential sherwani , styled together with lavish drapes and cummerbunds .

This year Raghavendra Rathore brand brought the classic fluid Dhoti as a part of his range. The tailored classical Rathore Bandhgala and the Bandhgala Achcan were paired as a compliment to the flowing Dhoti .

The silhouettes represented in this collection had signature Rathore elements, from chic, controlled styling, to fine, exquisite embroideries. The mélange of kantha , zardozi and bugle bead embroidery with accents of sequin, crystals and stones gave the collection a feeling of modern vintage.

As per the research, in 2012, the wedding market in India was estimated at 25 billion dollars (over Rs 1,500 crores), driven by jewellery, hospitality and fashion. And foreign brands as well couture show organisers and designers are exactly cashing in on the opportunity.