Fashion Capital Paris bares its teeth

Despite the economic situation ladies’ prêt-à-porter remains robust in France (-2% in 2011). Faced with a market experiencing upheaval, Fashion Week is holding up. The latest wave of designers is establishing itself and the big fashion

houses continue to astonish by their ability to keep raising the bar. As shown by the flawless performances of Dries Van Noten, Haider Ackermann, Balmain, Carven and Balenciaga or the astounding exercises in style in all aspects of fur – the flagship material of next winter –signed Jean Paul Gaultier, Réveillon, Viktor & Rolf and Givenchy. Promising debuts were also made by Cédric Charlier (ex-Artistic Director at Cacharel), Hexa by Kuho and Allude; they enriched the official calendar.

Bill Gaytten is skilfully following the new orientation of Christian Dior with his fifth ladies’ collection – a vintage strongly reminiscent of New Look, marked by gentle, luxurious modernity. And if the couturier were to quit his position as interim Artistic Director ... For the moment, a question mark is still hanging over his role within the fashion house in Avenue Montaigne: “You can’t do things in a hurry. We will make absolutely no comment. There is a rumour going around and it’s no big deal because it won’t affect the fashion house,” says Sidney Toledano, the Chief Executive of Dior at the end of the fashion show on the fourth day of Fashion Week.

As the designers’ week was drawing to a close, rumours were circulating about the hasty departure of Maxime Simoens from Léonard, the fashion house that is celebrating its 54th anniversary. After Marc Jacobs and Raf Simons, WWD claims that this designer from Calais has been approached about joining Dior.

In Paris, everything is possible. That’s why fashion professionals love “La ville lumière” (the City of Light) so much. Here are six reasons why Paris retains its high position among the capitals of fashion:

1. Its “lucky” catwalks. Let’s take the example of Isabel Marant whose sales increased to over 60 million euros in 2011. The success story continues ... this label has acquired new premises in Paris and will be opening its own boutiques in Hong Kong, Seoul, Tokyo and Los Angeles by the end of 2013.

2. The improbable profitability of luxe labels. In 2011, Christian Dior’s sales passed the billion Euro mark (+22%). “Things are going in the right direction regarding the positioning of our products with regard to top-flight know-how which, in France, is highly competitive,” enthuses Sidney Toledano.

3. An international range. The Paris Fashion Week includes designers from Turkey, China, Japan, the United Kingdom, Brazil, Russia and Australia. This wealth of designers brings a shine to the country’s image. In the last two years, French exports have started to grow again (+4.6%).

4. Its way of winning customer loyalty. Paris has considerable reserves. Its mastery of discreet luxury and the inexhaustible vocabulary of clothing continue to feed the fantasies of fashion editors.

5. A unique model. Designers affirm their differences far from the dictates of marketing. Being less commercial than American and Italian prêt-à-porter, the Paris Fashion Week is distinguished by its moments of emotion and poetry.

6. A sense of showmanship. Paris is synonymous with creative audacity. The fashion houses know how to create an event by taking over the most beautiful and strangest places in the capital. Mossi Traoré organised a fashion show at the Père Lachaise Crematorium. But, “Wherever it is, whether it is traditional catwalk presentation or a digital one, the fashion show is always a sales accelerator,” reflects Didier Grumbach, the President of the Fédération de la Couture.

From our correspondent in Paris

Photo’s: Maxime Simoëns, Isabel Marant and Jean Paul Gaultier.