Jaya Rathore: Weaving ethnic magic

With Indian weaving and traditional craftsmanship as her muse, Kolkata-based ethnic wear designer Jaya Rathore’s company Nivera Apparels has thrown into the fashion limelight, some dying crafts from different parts of the country.

From selection of fabrics and choosing the right color palette to deciding how creatively it can be fused into the garment, the designer believes in experimentation that makes her work opulent, distinct and eye-catching. Having exhibited at high profile fashion shows such as Bridal Asia, Wills India Fashion Week and Pearl Delhi Couture Week with stars like Urmila Matondkar and Neha Dhupia as show stoppers, the designer effectively showcases changing fashion trends in ethnic wear.

“The latest fashion trends in Indian wear are the Anarkali style which will undergo a lot of transformation in the coming times. In western wear, it is Maxis. My Panache collection has always been there on my mind. I believe a woman can look graceful and resplendent in ethnic wear. There is no better way to portray elegance and feminity than Indian wear. And with the blending of colors and designs, Panache came in form. I like exploring the Indian weaving and then I experiment with the traditional craftsmanship, the outcome turns out to be something, which mixes the contemporary with ethnicity. It looks dapper and eye-catching,” says Rathore.

“We have a new collection named as progressing aesthetically. In India, Ikat textiles command a very special status since 12th century onwards. Revered by generations of kings, treasured in the finest museums, their beauty lies enmeshed in their rich visual textures and precision bound technique. I have used warp, weft, and also double Ikat textile. With Ikat I have combined convent embroidery, again an art which is not only classy but also have survived for a long time.” she adds.

Her ramp shows are always vibrant with a lot of color, embroideries and silhouettes, which reflects the various moods of a woman at various stages of life. Her lehenga collection for Indian brides, uses an exclusive technique which reveals heavy and elaborate work but are comparatively much lighter to manage, has earned her special place with women who herald Indian artistry. Rathore’s recent festive/winter collection 2010/’11 unveiled in New Delhi at Olive Beach, mesmerized her fans by using a lot of warm jewel colors such as different shades of red, emerald green and fuchsia. Soon she will be unveiling a new spring/summer collection and adding new designs to her women’s line.

Currently retailing from Aza in Mumbai and Delhi, Ogaan in Delhi, Elahe in Hyderabad, Mirangee in Jaipur and Elan in Ahmedabad, she has plans to expand her retailing as well diversify her product portfolio by adding new segments. Although the women’s wear segment is growing rapidly in India, she remains focused on ethnic wear which is her forte.