Tackling the sourcing problem: a closer look

IN_DEPTH_ Fires, building collapses and worker protests – the sourcing end of the textile and garment manufacturing industry is going through a crisis like rarely before. And everyone is affected - from workers (many of whom lost

their lives), factory owners and suppliers to buyers and consumers. In a new series, FashionUnited is taking a closer look at the world of garment sourcing.

Especially consumers seem confused what to do – buy expensive, high-end apparel only and show discounters the cold shoulder? Forget the price and look at sustainability? Shop by country only and leave so called low-wage countries alone?

But even the buyers’ side is confused – deeply troubled by the recent events on one hand while trying to justify business practices on the other. In fact, so reluctant are brands and retailers to come forward that when recently, a well-known German talk show host called industry leaders for a Bangladesh talk, the list of those who declined (prominently displayed in the credits) read like an industry’s Who’s Who.

Suppliers and workers are getting squeezed

Suppliers are in between, trying to satisfy the demand of the buyers who need the next order fulfilled (and that too fast!) while finding a factory that can supply at the terms and conditions specified. In the bargain (pardon the pun), human rights and safety standards can go for a toss, aided by geographical distance and sociocultural differences of buyers and suppliers.

Workers are at the bottom end and have the least say in the matter, often risking their lives in dilapidated buildings with no escape routes. Yet, they are far from performing “slave labour” as some sources like to call it. After all, any job – and European and US workers may relate here – regardless of how bad it is, is still a job, guaranteeing some income and with it some stability and independence.

The good news is that textile and garment manufacturing does not happen in a vacuum but as part of a global demand and supply chain, is related to many other industries that have similar battles to fight. Or may have fought them successfully already. Companies manufacturing technical textiles or sustainable clothes (and there are many) should be taken a closer look at. Despite having their own agenda, unions, industry associations and non-profit organisations can be mediators and valuable resources when it comes to tackling the problems at hand.

Over the course of the next few weeks, FashionUnited will examine the different sides and their issues and shed light on each one by looking at background information and related issue. We would appreciate feedback and input from our readers and would like to invite you to share your insights and comments here: news@fashionunited.com. The next article in the series will be published on Tuesday.

Image: Pete


Simone Preuss