WIFW: Buzzes with new trends for next season

The Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week Autum/Winter 2014 that concluded in New Delhi unveiled new trends and colour codes for the forthcoming season. However, the event that took place from March 26 to 30 failed to attract the usual buzz that it generates every time. Despite the presence of big

names from the fashion world and ample Bollywood support, it lacked the usual sheen. The event kick-started with a gala show by Tarun Tahiliani and Namrata Joshipura brought the curtains down. The show known to be a trendsetter saw designers following international fashion and colour themes with an Indian twist.

Big designers, bigger shows

WIFW started with a Bollywood bang as master couturier Tarun Tahiliani opened the event with an interesting collection of asymmetrical ensembles in shades of ivory, black, deep emerald and ruby red. Inspired by a variety of cultures, from Mughal grandeur to South Indian necklaces, tapestry, jamawar , Art Nouveau and retro kaleidoscope prints, the collection featured ornate kaftans , mukaish work skirts, kalidar kurta tunics, pencil and thigh- high slit skirts, jackets and more.

From lipsticks, table fans and the Nandi bull to retro phone booths, Masaba Gupta presented yet another print-heavy show. Label Satya Paul, helmed by Gupta, further indulged in separates and dresses, apart from their signature saris. Rahul Misra’s ‘The Lotus Effect’ ended the second day on an emotional note. Mishra’s showed a signature muted palette with focus on intricate and painstakingly delicate detailing, all hand-crafted and hand-woven. The collection was an extension of his Woolmark line, and saw the use of Merino wool in ingenious ways.

Designer duo Abraham & Thakore used muga, tussar and eri fabrics woven in various textures, in shades of khaki to gold, to create styled saris, jackets and kurtas . The idea was to give a sleek, 'urban uniform' dressing option, and that, coupled with the minimalist approach of the designer duo, brought on the ramp outfits that were essentially Indian.

Trend alert for Autumn/Winter

The WIFW blended international fashion trends with the Indian heritage perfectly. The predominance of red or velvet, much like the New York Fashion Weekand colours with a hint red was there throughout. Collars too made a huge comeback this season. They not only added character to an outfit but also added a sense of mystique. Bright shades are a specialty of Indian fashion and they were visible through most of the collections. Be it neon pink or cold prints, legging have ditched their black avatar and appeared sexier than ever. High waisted pleat pants or flares too made a comeback apart from defined and structured clothes and voluminous ensembles like gherdaar anarkali suits or multiple pleat sarees . Velvet over coats and saree blouses in royal colours were seen returning in a big way this season.

Anupama Dayal’s unusual collection saw barefoot models in bright coloured lehengas , saris , plunging neck blouses, linen jackets, anarkalis and metal kamarbandhs . While Vineet Bahl showcased sharara pants and flowing anarkalis and kurtas made a return, stylistic additions such as pastel embroidery and short cigarette pants added a new flavour.

Innovative accessories made a grand entry during WIFW. Designer duo Hemant & Nandita had smart leather booties with white soles and gold metal spikes poking out from the heels; 431- 88 by Shweta Kapur presented snug faux fur satchels to work their magic while Samant Chauhan took the next step by styling models with rolled- up quilts in their backpacks. Pero by Aneeth Arora was a whimsical display of snow packed on the sides of the ramp and street lamps lining the edges. Models sashayed down with snowflakes on their hair and eyelashes, in tartan print and striped sweaters, midi skirts, overcoats, dresses and trousers.

Pankaj & Nidhi's collection for Fiama Di Wills was a spectacular evening wear range inspired by a deck of playing cards. Presented in a setting of giant cards with the four suits of the game - hearts, spades, clubs and diamonds - the collection included chic and sophisticated silhouettes for the cold. The attention to detail was evident, as they crafted metal earrings, printed clutches, bow ties and shoes with matching prints on them.