Neeru Kumar's earthy tones

Ace designer Neeru Kumar found an innovative way to pay tribute to Indian fabrics. At the recent Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week (WLIFW), her collection of saris, tunics et al in earthy, muted colors with interesting drapes were the highlights of the show. It featured extensive layering - from brazen asymmetrical cuts to cross stitches that are the designer's signature style - with no surface ornamentation. The eco-friendly materials were transformed into saris, maxi-dresses, tunics, skirts, Jodhpuri trousers and shirts.

The emphasis was on clothes and Kumar used belts to a great extent. She also showcased smart jackets and trench coats, with traces of wool and cashmere. Eye-catching satin blouses and structured jackets were the main attraction along with shrugs and a twist that made a comeback on the ramp. From brazen asymmetrical cuts to traditional cross-stitches, each garment was uniquely Indian and elegant, emphasizing the designer's signature style.

One of the highlights of her collection was in-built pockets in tunics and skirts. The designer is a pioneer in the world of handcrafted textiles. She uses traditional techniques and indigenous materials, but with constant experimentation and research. She is known for her unique sensibility especially in tone and texture and has a deep knowledge of the weaving process and other textile techniques. And she has a commitment to support the craft sector. A 1980 graduate of the National Institute of Design in Ahmedabad, she made her first commercial breakthrough in 1989 with her signature First Design, a black and tussar weave, which was acclaimed internationally.