12 Newsletters cutting through the mysteries of the fashion industry

Substack has become the new launchpad for compelling voices in fashion. Buyers, journalists, retailers and socialites inform their readership, who are often also fans, about the current state of the industry. FashionUnited has selected a line-up of leading series in anticipation of the new fashion year.

Back Row (Amy Odell)

Amy Odell is a fashion journalist and author of the bestseller “ANNA: The Biography”. In Back Row, she combines sharp reportage with cultural commentary, humorously analysing what happens on the fringes of the insider industry. What drives brands to continue innovating? Who exactly shops at Gucci, and what kind of customer does Dior attract?

Thank You For Your Order (Gijs Veening)

Gijs Veening, known for his TikTok account ThankYouForYourOrder, draws on his experience as a fashion buyer in his newsletter. He shares trend analyses, styling ideas and under-the-radar brands that he believes deserve a place in a retail assortment, often supported by video and visual content.

Blackbird Spyplane (Jonah Weiner & Erin Wylie)

Blackbird Spyplane is a cult favourite written in an essayistic style. The writers use their own, often ironic, experiences to explain the convergence of fashion, music and culture. It features a combination of insider conversations with figures like Andre 3000 and Hector Bellerin and in-depth reflections on style and identity.

The Cereal Aisle (Leandra Medine Cohen)

Leandra Medine Cohen, founder of the pioneering blog Man Repeller, builds on her reputation as a sharp, witty voice in fashion with The Cereal Aisle. In it, she does what she does best: giving style advice. Readers can learn a lot from her observations of street style. Take today's coats, for example, which exhibit “peacocking behaviour”.

Shop Rat (Emilia Petrarca)

Emilia Petrarca was a senior fashion writer at The Cut and has written for Vogue and The New York Times. In Shop Rat, she speaks with shoppers in her native New York, investigating topics such as why a “flaccid tote” can give its carrier a “kick”. It is an accessible form of fashion journalism about style and retail culture, which also reveals why brick and mortar stores remain significant.

Magasin (Laura Reilly)

In Magasin, Laura Reilly presents a mix of cultural reports and curated retail picks that capture the zeitgeist. Reilly's background is in journalism, having written for leading titles such as Vogue. With her eye for innovation in fashion and retail, she analyses runway looks, creates sale guides and shares observations on current trends.

Line Sheet (Lauren Sherman via Puck.news)

Lauren Sherman is an established name, known for her reporting for publications such as Business of Fashion. In Line Sheet, she delves deep into the mechanics of the fashion world, from consumer behaviour to the mindset behind the strategic decisions of luxury brands. She analyses stock market activity, interprets significant CEO changes and understands the resulting implications for the brand.

The Allison Bornstein Newsletter (Allison Bornstein)

Allison Bornstein is a personal stylist and “closet therapist”. Since the release of her practical book, “Wear it Well”, she has become a prominent voice in fashion. In her newsletter, she continues to share tips: how to organise a wardrobe? What distinguishes New York style from that of Los Angeles? This is essential knowledge, even for professionals.

Brain Matter (Gabriella Karefa-Johnson)

Gabriella Karefa-Johnson is a stylist and former fashion editor at Vogue. In Brain Matter, she uses her platform for deep, personal reflections on fashion, identity and culture. Why do certain collections resonate so strongly while others fail to connect with the public? What is fashion truly doing for visibility and representation? Fashion gains more value when an industry expert reflects on these broader themes.

Culture (W. David Marx via Ghost)

The author of Culture is as anonymous and understated as the platform he uses to communicate, Ghost. American writer W. David Marx describes, as an observer, how culture and art manifest in his surroundings. This results in insightful short essays and analyses where fashion is a significant, yet secondary, focus.

1 Granary

1 Granary is an established fashion education platform founded by outspoken design students. Its newsletter, which features new articles not available on the website, furthers the mission to make the industry more accessible. It provides tangible tips for fashion creatives, reflections on fashion education and practical advice for succeeding in the industry.