Driving textile innovation: Highlights from Performance Days Munich
With approximately 4,500 domestic and international visitors and 515 exhibitors, the Performance textile trade fair in Munich has once again demonstrated that its concept resonates with the industry. From October 29 to 30, the segment's leaders presented their innovations for the autumn/winter 2027 season.
The positive atmosphere was remarkable, a sentiment rarely felt at trade fairs in recent years. The 35th edition of Performance Days radiated energy, innovative solutions and a commitment to advancing the industry. Marco Weichert, CEO of Performance Days, was enthusiastic about the outcome: “We see ourselves as hosts and want to offer our exhibitors, sponsors and visitors two days full of inspiration, education, new ideas, fabric innovations and a valuable, relaxed working atmosphere. I think we have succeeded brilliantly.” For him, this success is proof that they are on the right path and motivates him to “continue to work consistently on our concept and quality.”
The trade fair does indeed do things differently from other organisers. For instance, there is a waiting list of around 150 exhibitors keen to participate. “Why should I show 30 exhibitors from the same category when only the best are truly interesting?” Weichert explained his approach. While the fair is growing in terms of exhibitors, this is primarily due to the addition of new segments, such as the recent inclusion of the footwear segment. All awards and the design of the trend forums are selected solely based on internal quality criteria; no one can buy their way in. If there is no significant innovation in a particular area, no award is presented.
Focus on textile-to-textile recycling
As always, the trade fair was centred around a key theme, both in content and visually. This time, the focus was on “Textile to Textile – the Role of Recyclers”. Various workshops and lectures addressed this topic, aiming to foster collaboration between brands, producers and recyclers along the circular value chain. A key highlight was the panel discussion, “T-REX: Creating a Blueprint for a Circular Textile Ecosystem in the EU”. Representatives from Fulgar, Adidas and BASF discussed the results of the EU-funded project T-REX (Textile Recycling Excellence). The T-REX Blueprint was presented, a strategic document providing concrete recommendations and best practices for a more closed-loop, circular textile system in Europe. It demonstrates how a circular textile economy can be implemented both economically and practically. “Textile waste is a key resource; we just need to use it. Recycling technologies exist, and initial solutions are working. Now it is time to scale, connect and act,” explained Anna Schuster, head of sustainability at Performance Days.
Fibres of the future: first collaboration with Future Fabrics Expo
A new development was the collaboration with London's Future Fabrics Expo, which Weichert described as his “personal favourite fair” at a press dinner the previous evening. The exhibition space vividly demonstrated how future textiles could be created. Amanda Johnston, chief design officer of Future Fabrics Expo, stated: “Our goal is to encourage the industry to explore the diversity of sustainable material alternatives in the performance sector and to replace traditional fibres like virgin polyester or conventional cotton, which still constitute the majority of global fibre volume.”
One example on display was the new Nanoloom fibre, made from graphene, one of the world's strongest and lightest materials. Graphene is essentially carbon and can be produced by converting biomass waste. Nanoloom has integrated it into biodegradable polymers to develop functional fibres and yarns that are 100 percent recyclable and biodegradable. The fibres are intended to replace elastane as their first application, being more stretchable and stronger than conventional stretch fibres. A facility for the industrial production of these fibres is currently under construction in Europe.
Another innovation came from Fibarcode. The company has developed a method for embedding information into the fibre's cross-section. This allows for permanent authentication of textiles, ensures traceability and provides recycling information at the end of the product's life cycle. Data is retrieved using a low-cost, portable scanning system. All conventional polymers are suitable for this process, including recycled, bio-based and biodegradable synthetic fibres.
Wool and innovation: rising demand
The Wool Area, which has continued to expand, was another successful feature. “The demand for wool is rising, which has prompted us to give the area even more attention,” said Astrid Schlüchter, senior communication manager at Performance Days. Highlights of the Wool Area included a new material from Flytec. This material is composed of 88 percent recycled wool and twelve percent silk. It uses a special spinning process that gives the fibres a strong crimp and optimises their scale structure. This creates an ultra-dense textile surface that is permanently windproof, breathable and water-repellent, all without chemical additives or microplastics.
New material architectures at Primaloft and Polartec
Established suppliers such as Primaloft and Polartec also unveiled their innovations. Primaloft, a specialist in synthetic insulation materials, introduced UltraPeak. This is a novel synthetic insulation with architecturally constructed fibres that deliver warmth, loft and a feel comparable to down, yet it is made entirely from recycled materials. The fibre architecture creates an internal framework that traps air and efficiently stores heat. The fibre is produced using P.U.R.E. technology, which was introduced several years ago and reduces CO₂ emissions by over 50 percent. Primaloft fully transitioned its premium insulation to Primaloft P.U.R.E. in January 2025, with more products expected to follow in the coming seasons.
Fleece specialist Polartec introduced Polartec AirCore, a novel, air-permeable and PFAS-free laminate featuring a nanofibre membrane that is both weatherproof and highly breathable. The softshell material comprises an outer and inner fabric with a membrane positioned between them, achieving a water column of 6,000 millimetres; by definition, waterproofness begins at 10,000 millimetres. According to Polartec, it covers 90 percent of all applications. The nanofibre membrane permits a controlled airflow, actively wicking moisture and heat from the inside out. This creates a dry microclimate, even during intense physical activity. “Making waterproof fabrics is easy,” explained Ramesh Kesh, senior vice president at Milliken & Company and business leader at Polartec, during the fabric's presentation. “It is more difficult to produce a water-repellent, comfortable and breathable fabric without PFAS.”
Collaboration with Beams and Utah State University
Amidst all the futuristic themes, the trade fair also offered a touch of nostalgia. For the first time, Japanese trend retailer Beams exhibited, presenting select pieces from its extensive archive of outdoor apparel. These historical items were complemented by a collection of vintage outdoor magazines and brand catalogues, gathered from around the world by Utah State University.
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