Düsseldorf order days: difficult times call for fashion courage

The mood at the latest Düsseldorf Fashion Days in Germany was one of relaxed pragmatism. As the industry gathered to allocate budgets for the Autumn/Winter 2026/27 season, buying decisions were driven by a calculated balance of intuition and sell-through data rather than trade-show glamour.

With the relocation of the Twodays fair to Halle 29, the event now boasts a cohesive hub between Kaiserswerther Straße and Rather Straße. Visitors predominantly hailed from Germany and the Netherlands, with a notable uptick in retailers from Eastern Europe and a high-profile buying team from the US.

Twodays settles into Halle 29

The industrial charm of Halle 29 provided a successful debut for Twodays, hosting 100 brands across 1,550 square metres. "We have found our place; I am really happy here," said Ulrike Kähler, managing director of Igedo Exhibitions.

The brand mix leaned toward the avant-garde. Katrin Heissner of the Heissner Agency, representing labels like Scandinavian brand Bitte Kai Rand and Sydney-based Alquema, noted: "We sell style. Our clients are free spirits with the courage for unconventional collections."

Across at Kap One, Hinterhofagentur and Desigual reported high engagement. Desigual is currently leveraging the Düsseldorf platform for a brand relaunch. Area Manager Tanja Wiesent noted that despite a "bumpy road" in the wider market, there is significant interest in their experimental patchwork and printed denim.

Supreme Women & Men: The premium hub

Held at Kaiserswerther Straße, Supreme Women & Men remains the destination for the industry’s buying elite. CEO Aline Müller-Schade emphasized that personal interaction and quality remain the only constants in a changing market.

The Denim Outlook: Erwin O. Licher, head of Herrlicher, acknowledged the current retail crisis but remains optimistic. "We were all spoiled... but 2026 will be better," he predicted, noting strong interest in faux fur, velvet, and voluminous denim cuts.

Italian Presence: Emme (a Max Mara sister brand) highlighted their "Hug Me" jacket collection, focusing on the "sporty-elegant" aesthetic that is currently performing well in the commercial sector.

Showroom insights: Emotional connections

The permanent showrooms on Kaiserswerther Straße saw a flurry of activity, with a focus on "everyday glamour" and sophisticated layering.

"Fashion is in transition... everything is becoming more sophisticated, with more layering and style mixing." — Silvia Zacharowski, Silrose Agency.

At Luisa Cerano, the focus for the season includes sapphire blue accents, pussy-bow blouses, and ties for women. Meanwhile, Raffaello Rossi reported success with new "O-shape" and barrel silhouettes in trousers.

In the halls, Bugatti and Brax focused on the technicalities of the Point of Sale (POS). Bugatti’s Florian Wortmann stressed the need for emotional storytelling: "We must create an emotional connection... 2026 will be a good year." At Fuchs Schmitt, the focus turned to the "German transitional jacket," re-engineering outerwear for a ten-month wearing season using light padding and plush wools.

The Takeaway: While January’s sluggish retail performance tempered some enthusiasm, Düsseldorf proved that retailers are doubling down on strong relationships and highly curated, "crisis-proof" collections to entice cautious consumers.