Exploring Wonderland: The journey of UK lingerie trade fair founders

Lingerie is a lucrative sector in the UK. According to Grand View Horizon, the market reported a revenue of 4.5 billion dollars in 2024, and is expected to reach eight billion dollars by 2033.

Despite its prevalence, regional trade representation for the category has been fairly scarce – reflecting a gap in the market the founders of Wonderland were willing to dive into. Nicky Clayton and Lucy Dowler of Philippa Bradley Agency launched the lingerie, nightwear and swimwear fair in 2024, with the goal of building up a supportive community for a budding industry.

Since its inception, the fair has gone on to receive widening support from other industry players, like its “Big Sister” Curve New York, and has continued to expand beyond initial expectations, with 100 brands now set to descend on London’s Sheraton Grand Hotel for the upcoming edition, taking place January 25 to 27, 2026.

Speaking to FashionUnited, Clayton and Dowler shared their insights into the inner workings of Wonderland, what trends are defining the market, and how they are continuing to drive evolution.

Talk me through your background. What brought you to founding Wonderland?

Dowler: Nicky and I are wholesale agents in the lingerie, nightwear, and swimwear sector. We run Philippa Bradley Agencies, a longstanding, respected agency which has been going since 1979. We’ve procured international brands as well as domestic labels and have become embedded in the lingerie world. I’ve always been in wholesale, while Nicky comes from a buying background.

Clayton: I entered the industry at Harrods, before heading up intimate apparel at House of Fraser and later moving over into wholesale with Lucy.

When we started forming Wonderland, we already had a good understanding of what buyers and wholesale agents are looking for. We didn’t have a one-dimensional view of what we wanted to achieve. It was about how we could keep all exhibitors and buyers happy.

Dowler: There was a great deal of appetite for a London show. Here, there were ready-to-wear and accessories events, but nothing specifically for lingerie, nightwear, and swimwear. We identified buyers craving new brands, new innovations and the kinds of events offered by what we call our ‘Big Sisters’, in Paris and New York [Salon International de la Lingerie (SIL) and Curve, ed.]. We were lacking that here in London, so that was how Wonderland was born.

Despite the event still being in its infancy, have you already had to evolve and adapt between each edition? What have been some particular milestones?

Clayton: We try to make the show experiential. It’s more like a giant showroom than a traditional trade show. Everybody has the same fixtures and details, so you’re on an even playing field. It’s the product that does the talking. We were initially concerned that the brands and buyers wouldn’t be receptive to that format, but paring it back has actually worked.

To increase the dwell time of buyers, and for them to feel comfortable, the event needed to hold different experiences. ‘Fabulous Coffee’, for example, has been with us since the beginning, they’re almost part of the furniture. It’s about all those tiny touchpoints that make a really gorgeous experience.

When it comes to exhibitors, we really try to pick emerging brands that we think are exciting for the buyers to see. We know their time is limited, so we really cherry pick some new talent and highlight them. The buyers get a really rounded overview of what’s new in the industry, and what they should be looking for or what their customers might ask for. It gives a real 360 experience.

Dowler: Buyers coming to trade shows were often in vacuous venues, whizzing around. It needs to be a much more considered approach if you’re buying for your business for the next six months. It needs to be more than a quick whip around, it needs to be a journey.

The show itself is spread over three floors at the Sheraton Grand Hotel in Mayfair. We have looked at bigger venues as there’s been more appetite from brands to join the show, but I think something Nicky and I were very conscious about is that we didn’t want to lose the intimacy of the venue.

We also created a Buyer’s Library where, in the madness of trade shows, we offer a calm moment where you can plan your direction and review your lookbook. All exhibitors want to write orders for the show, which is the challenge we continue to try and overcome: to give buyers a reason to come, take their time and put pen to paper.

How integral is collaboration to Wonderland’s existence?

Dowler: [Collaborations have] allowed us to do experiential things in other parts of the show. We’ve had some really fun collaborations, with, for example, the Italian Consortium, to bring an Italian quarter to the July show last year. An influx of Italian brands sponsored buyer lunches with authentic Italian ingredients.

We also collaborated with De Montfort University [in Leicester, England, ed.], which runs a respected [Contour Fashion Innovation] course. We had an army of mannequins showing graduates’ work at the entrance to the last show. Graduates could come and talk to visitors, present their work, and hopefully make connections to forge career opportunities.

What kind of buyers are you attracting?

Dowler: We’ve been very successful at bringing in a real cross-section of buyers. We attract everyone from Freemans to Selfridges, Harrods, Harvey Nichols, and everyone in between, like Next, John Lewis and Fenwick.

We also get buyers coming from Singapore. We had the girls over from France’s Bon Marche, which we were blown away by because there is already a successful show in their home city. We’ve also had some buyers from Japan, girls from a boutique in South Africa, Australia, Germany, buyers from the UAE and, of course, the Irish.

Nicky: It was never really the intention to service buyers from further afield, but we have an open door policy. We welcome everyone.

What kind of trends are you seeing in the way of categories and brands? How are you reflecting that in the fair?

Clayton: With trading being tough as it is, buyers are buying more reactively rather than proactively. We always urge brands to bring continuity, anything that is immediately available. We know that there is often an opportunity for immediate purchases at a trade show, because if buyers have not bought for six months then brands can get clients quite quickly if the opportunity is there.

Some buyers have such a big stock holding, they can’t think about six months' time. They have the capacity, right now, to take cotton pyjamas or swimwear, for example. This reactive way of buying rather than forward planning is something we’ve noticed more and more over the last few seasons.

Dowler: We’re also seeing buyers coming to us with the expectation of finding something new and special. The service level that you’re getting in an independent boutique is so focused and dedicated that the products need to have some kind of exclusivity, making them more of a considered purchase.

People are in one of two camps: either going after their tried and tested continuity that’s a safe bet, or looking for smatterings of something new and special. That’s what they’re coming to us for.

There will also be a bit of an expansion to your ready-to-wear selection. How has this category been integral to the show, and how are brands typically responding to demand for this field?

Clayton: We already host brands in the athleisure sector, like Girlfriend Collective. We’re also seeing pyjamas, unstructured bralettes, and pretty panties among ready-to-wear accounts at more entry-level price points. Brands that offer these products are getting a good pickup rate from buyers. It might not be their main buy, but more for add-on sales, like gifting.

Dowler: In July, there was a good reaction to Italian couture brand Oscalito, who do beautiful bodysuits and intricate embroidered pieces. These are strong ready-to-wear, layering pieces.

Also in summer, when beach coverups have their moment, that is a really lovely way to bring light, airy garments to your ready-to-wear stores. They are complementary to T-shirts, shorts and baskets.

Are there any other categories you see as major growth drivers at the moment?

Dowler: For the coming season, we will host Ms A London, a transgender lingerie line specifically designed for customers going through that transition process. Lemonade Dolls also has a transgender line. It’s a contemporary brand showing in the UK for the first time. They have a very inclusive and diverse product mix. We include these brands to cater to everyone.

Clayton: For us, the period pants thing had been prevalent a few seasons ago. We had quite a surge which seems to have dropped off. There had been lots of boob tape for a while, and some interesting innovations in sports bras. Last year, we had a brand who had produced sports bras for the England women’s football team.

Dowler: They’re probably the main categories. Other than that, I feel like people have moved back to basics: stocking what they know, or those very special pieces.

We’ve seen a lot of stores that are looking to elevate their price point with an elevated product mix, because they can’t compete with the high street.

Clayton: Another thing we’ve seen in the market since Covid is an increase in appointment-only retail. For some of our retailers, that has definitely been a trend. People are working smarter with their time, making their boutiques work for them. They’re finding that the conversation rate for one dedicated client seeking a one-on-one experience sees a return far greater than a standard open door policy.

You’ve also had a long-running relationship with Curve New York. How did that come about and how is it continuing to evolve?

Clayton: For our first show, we were really taken aback by how much interest came from the industry. We were just working on what we thought the UK market needed, but then the teams from other established shows, like Salon, came.

The organisers of Curve, which also own Salon now, reached out to us and expressed their excitement over what we’re doing in the UK market. They asked how they could support us and if we could work together.

We initially started out with a competition featuring a few of our emerging brands here in the UK. We gave them an opportunity to showcase their product in a ‘Wonderland London’ area, giving them a moment to shine in front of US buyers. Buyers then selected the brands they wanted to win so they could see them at the next show. That was our first toe in the water with Curve, and we’ve continued to build from there.

Dowler: The team is so supportive of us. We’ve given opportunities to brands like Jessica Russell Flint, giving them a leg up by exhibiting in New York. We’re continuing to do that so there’s a bit of fluidity between the two shows.

We always consider Curve as our ‘Big Sister’, and their show in Paris is well respected. To be under their wing is a big privilege.

As you were starting out, what kind of challenges did you face? How have you overcome them throughout the years?

Clayton: Initial challenges were largely financial. Operating a wholesale agency and previously being exhibitors, we knew how expensive it can be to show. Our initial challenges were about sourcing rails, equipment, getting the right people in, and making the event affordable.

There is another show for our category that is serving a more regional customer. So part of our challenge was to encourage brands to take that leap of faith to join a London show when they had already been exhibiting at a regional event for a long time.

Dowler: We’re only a small island. The question we came across several times was: ‘do we need two shows?’ Nicky and I have stood behind this decision and I think it’s a testament that we have close to 100 brands exhibiting with us.

We also work with the [Federation de la Haute Couture et de la Mode] on a French consortium representing nine of what I would consider the major heavyweights in lingerie. We work to ensure that they are sufficiently supported. We were flattered in July because they hosted an event in collaboration with Wonderland – a catwalk show held after the Monday.

For the coming season, what do you anticipate in the way of attendee numbers? Are you seeing growth?

Nicky: We’d love to. We’re pretty established with lingerie buyers. They’re very loyal to the show, and we expect them to come.

Dowler: What we would like to see more of is ready-to-wear buyers. A lot of lingerie brands are quite specific and targeted at specialist stores, but we would like to see more ready-to-wear buyers through our doors. It might be for spas, it might be beauty salons, or gyms and gift shops, we have something for everyone.

There’s so many options to create exciting gift bundles. That’s where we see lots of opportunity to cross-pollinate into other retail stores.

Clayton: In terms of numbers, at the last show we had 270 buyers and our registrations are on track to look the same. We do get all of the dedicated lingerie, swimwear, and sleepwear buyers at the show, so we see an opportunity for athleisure and ready-to-wear too.

Where do you envision Wonderland going in the near future?

Dowler: I want to maintain this reputation of being an innovative show that is bringing newness and an art to discovery. The name ‘Wonderland’ refers to the discovery of wonders for your boutique – it’s a reference to Alice in Wonderland, like a playground for your imagination.

This is shown in our changing themes and logo for every season. We build this sense of appetite and spark excitement among our community. January will be a circus theme.

Clayton: We just want to continue providing a space for new innovation. Since founding the show and running it together, we’re in a position where there are no boundaries, no rules. We can be fluid to what the market needs. It’s changing so quickly but we can react and remain proactive. We’re constantly listening and evolving to make sure we’re delivering the experience that people want to find.