Menswear: all eyes on exports and Pitti Uomo, starting tomorrow in Florence

All eyes are on Florence this week for the start of the Pitti Uomo menswear trade fair, a pivotal event for the global fashion industry that opens tomorrow. The trade show begins against a backdrop of complex international trade data; as of November 2025, ISTAT (the Italian National Institute of Statistics) estimates a significant 7.4 percent reduction in imports from non-EU countries, while Italian exports have remained stable.

According to a report by the Economic and Statistical Studies Office of Confindustria Moda, the Italian menswear sector experienced diverging trends during the first seven months of 2025. International sales from January to July decreased by 3.2 percent compared to the same period last year, totaling 5.3 billion euros. Conversely, imports of menswear into Italy grew by an average of 5.5 percent, reaching 3.8 billion euros.

Geographical shifts and the importance of non-EU markets

There is a clear geographical divide in these performance figures between European and global markets. While the EU market demonstrated positive momentum with a 2.4 percent increase in trade, exports to non-EU countries contracted by 7.8 percent. Despite this decline, the non-EU region remains the primary global destination for Italian menswear, absorbing 52.2 percent of total exports. On the import side, goods coming into Italy from non-EU markets saw a double-digit surge of 15.9 percent, now accounting for 55.2 percent of Italy’s menswear imports, while imports from within the EU actually decreased by 4.9 percent.

Performance across key global destinations

France remains the leading market for Italian menswear, supported by a growth trend of 1 percent, amounting to 714 million euros. The United States followed in second place, consolidating its position with a strong 6.5 percent increase to 561 million euros, or 10.5 percent of the total. Germany ranked third with 527 million euros, despite a slight contraction of 1.9 percent. The stability of these three major markets, which account for over a third of the sector's exports, has helped mitigate declines elsewhere.

In contrast, China showed a sharp reversal with an 18.4 percent decline, bringing its export value to 363 million euros. Spain followed with 5.1 percent growth, while the United Kingdom recorded a 7.7 percent decline. Japan maintained a positive trajectory with 3.7 percent growth, while Switzerland, a strategic logistics hub for luxury brands, saw a double-digit contraction of 17.6 percent.

Emerging markets and the fashion calendar

Further diversifying the global landscape, Poland achieved remarkable growth of 30.1 percent, while Hong Kong and South Korea faced significant losses of 11.1 percent and 19.5 percent, respectively. The United Arab Emirates, Austria, and Turkey closed out the top fifteen markets, each showing healthy increases between 5.9 percent and 8.2 percent.

These figures set the stage for Pitti Uomo, running from tomorrow, January 13, to Friday, January 16, which will serve as a crucial barometer for market health. This will be followed immediately by Milan Fashion Week from January 16 to 20, where the industry will continue to assess brand responsiveness to recent economic shifts.

Innovation and global retail presence at Fortezza da Basso

The 109th edition of Pitti Uomo will feature the autumn/winter 2026-2027 collections from over 700 brands at the Fortezza da Basso, Italy, with 44 percent of exhibitors arriving from abroad. This year, the fair expands into the beauty segment with HiBeauty, a dedicated space for niche perfumery and artistic skincare. This new section reflects a global retail evolution where clothing shops and concept stores are increasingly integrating lifestyle categories.

Organizers have confirmed attendance from major global retailers, including 10 Corso Como and Beaker from South Korea, Beams and Isetan Mitsukoshi from Japan, Al Malki Group and Level Shoes from the Middle East, and prominent US retailers such as Andrew Davis, Drest by Scott Malouf, and Pockets.

Creative highlights and international guest designers

Under the theme of "Motion," symbolizing constant industry transformation, the fair will maintain its five signature sections: Fantastic classic, Futuro maschile, Dynamic attitude, Superstyling, and I Go Out. The event features several high-profile international guests, including Soshi Otsuki, the Japanese designer and 2025 LVMH Prize winner, who will blend Japanese style with Italian tailoring. He is joined by designer Hed Mayner and Tokyo-based Shinya Kozuka, the latter presenting a fashion show in collaboration with the Japan Fashion Week Organization. Regional spotlights also return, including the Scandinavian Manifesto section for Nordic menswear and the China Wave area, which highlights contemporary Chinese brands through a partnership with the China National Garment Association.

The event will also showcase specialized international collaborations, such as a "made in France" focus supported by the Promas French Menswear Fédération and a unique partnership between Roy Roger's and Kappa on a denim-inspired technical ski suit. Additionally, the American lifestyle brand Guess returns to showcase the future of denim under Nicolai Marciano, while the historic Austrian label Schneider’s of Salzburg will present its autumn/winter 2026 collection as part of a major global relaunch. These diverse presentations underscore Pitti Uomo's role as a global crossroads for tradition, innovation, and international trade.

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