Shein opens first physical store in Paris, drawing bargain hunters to BHV

Paris - Out of “curiosity” or because “it’s cheaper”, customers began to gather outside the department store on Wednesday. They were waiting for the opening of the Shein store at BHV in Paris at 1pm, despite the controversies surrounding the Asian giant's practices.

“My husband doesn’t know I came, we came in secret,” said Marie, a 43-year-old Parisian cleaner. Standing beneath the black and white banners bearing the five letters of the Asian brand, she explained that she thought the Shein store would open at 10am.

She admitted to visiting BHV “regularly” and was “attracted” to Shein “because it’s cheaper”.

Just over 60 people were queuing at the main entrance of the store around 10:30am. Here, opposite Paris's city hall, customers must collect a ticket to access the store. The space is located on the 6th floor and will be the first permanent physical store in the world for the fast fashion brand.

Police forces were present to secure the area. A protest by the children's rights association Mouv'enfants took place on Wednesday morning, with protesters holding signs that read “BHV your window display must not hide the shame”.

Parisian officials also made a statement, with the Paris city council declaring itself at war with Shein.

"Like everyone else"

Diarra Younouss, a 19-year-old event management student, came from the 13th arrondissement out of “curiosity” with his “entire” class. “It’s important, it’s a global inauguration, the first time we’ve seen a pure-player move from online to physical retail, it’s really interesting,” he said. Having also arrived too early, he ultimately decided not to wait for the opening, stating he was “too lazy to wait”.

Others will wait and make purchases, despite the controversies surrounding Shein. The company is regularly accused by environmental and human rights organisations, which condemn the manufacturing conditions; product transportation; and working conditions of its subcontractors.

Faced with these controversies and the judicial investigation now open following the sale of child-like sex dolls, customers often respond with arguments about purchasing power.

“It’s true that we should buy French products, but it’s expensive and salaries aren’t increasing, we’re not rich,” explains Marie.

Antoinette, a 79-year-old Parisian retiree, is one of the very first customers in the queue. She has never ordered from Shein. Regarding the doll controversy? “It must still exist” elsewhere, she laments.

“I’d like to start my Christmas shopping, I saw that Shein was opening, so I’ll look at other things in BHV,” she says. Exceptionally on Wednesday, any purchase at Shein will entitle the customer to a voucher of the same value to be used elsewhere in BHV.

According to her, BHV, which was taken over in 2023 by Frédéric Merlin's company SGM, has deteriorated in recent years: “Prices have increased across the board, it’s not as good, and there’s less to find”.

Several brands have left BHV. Some left due to disagreements with SGM and unpaid bills, such as Le Slip Français. Others, like the fashion house agnès b. on Tuesday, left more recently in reaction to the partnership with Shein.

Inside BHV, a few customers are shopping. Mila Moukbeul, a 61-year-old Parisian entrepreneur, does not “condone” Shein. “Maybe I’ll go and have a look, out of curiosity, like everyone else,” she added.