Drykorn at 30: Marco Götz on staying independent and growing abroad

When Marco Götz founded Drykorn in Würzburg in 1996, he started with 100 pairs of black wool trousers and no business plan. Three decades later, the label is sold in more than 1,000 multi-brand stores worldwide and has grown into a full contemporary brand for men and women, and it remains independent and owner-run.

To mark the anniversary, Drykorn launched "Dryconic" in October. The capsule collection revisits six signature pieces from its 30-year history, three for women and three for men. The campaign features Nadja Auermann, Lorena Rae, DJ Hell and Lennon Gallagher. “The idea isn’t to recreate the past, but to show how good design can remain relevant over time,” Götz told FashionUnited.

Drykorn was built on gaps Götz saw between classic menswear and the progressive styles worn in clubs and on the streets, he said. He sold the first trousers by driving to retailers himself and at events such as the Loveparade in Berlin. “When the first really good stores started believing in us and placing repeat orders, that was an important sign,” he said.

Womenswear, which began with a women’s trouser based on a men’s style, is now a key driver. “We don’t see womenswear as an addition to menswear,” he said. “It’s a strong part of our business, and we see great potential to develop it further.”

30 years of independence

Looking back on three decades, one choice stands out for Götz: “The decision to remain independent and build the company on our own terms. That has given us the freedom to make decisions based on what we believe is right for Drykorn.”

That freedom, he added, comes from not answering to outside shareholders. “We don’t have to follow a certain strategy just because someone expects particular numbers in the next quarter,” Götz said. “But we can decide for ourselves where we want to invest, how quickly we want to grow and what feels right for the brand.”

In June, Marino Edelmann joined as co-CEO. In July, Götz told FashionUnited that areas such as technology, corporate development and marketing had been added to his responsibilities, alongside own stores, e-commerce and concession models. “You simply can’t manage everything the same way you did 20 or 30 years ago,” he said. “Sharing responsibilities allows us to approach the next stage of the company’s development in a more focused way.”

"We need to be recognisably Drykorn"

Central Europe remains Drykorn’s main focus abroad, while Spain and Greece have performed particularly well. The brand added both markets two years ago. He also sees opportunities in Switzerland, Austria and the Netherlands. “It’s not about being everywhere. It’s about being in the right places,” he said.

In resort destinations such as Mallorca and Ibiza, customers tend to buy spontaneously, which calls for a different assortment. “You have to understand the local customer and adapt without losing your identity,” Götz said. He sees no need for the brand to adapt to competitors’ national styles. “We don’t need to become more Scandinavian or more French. We need to be recognisably Drykorn,” he said.

Looking ahead, he hopes the brand will grow internationally without losing its character. “If people look at Drykorn and recognise something distinctive, something that hasn’t simply followed every trend, I think that’s a legacy worth building,” he said.