'Fashion Future': What do younger generations demand from the fashion industry?

Fashion has always been obsessed with youth, but while designers look to the younger generation as a source of inspiration, the generation they are courting is rarely represented when it comes to concrete questions and decisions. Trend seminars and retail conferences repeatedly emphasize the importance of attracting Generation Z - born between 1997 and 2012 - or even better, Generation Alpha, who will grow into teenagers in the coming years, as a target group, but one crucial perspective is usually missing: that of the generations themselves. Instead of talking to them, people usually philosophize about their wishes and worries, laugh at their love of social media and package their interests in clichés.

Things were different at the Fashion Zukunft conference organized by the German fashion association Fashion Council Germany (FCG) and the educational charity The King's Foundation in Scotland. Instead of racking their brains about how the younger generation sees the industry and what problems they are worried about, the young people themselves had their say. There were 150 students aged fourteen to seventeen from the United Kingdom and Germany, the latter being part of the FCG's 'Generation Zukunft' project.

If anyone had any doubts about whether a group of teenagers could ask relevant questions and make contributions in the presence of top industry professionals, these were dispelled by the start of the conference. The students not only showed tireless interest, but also asked brave questions of the experts whose work and opinions were presented to them. Both the FCG and The King's Foundation admitted that this year's group of young people was more committed than any previously invited. For FCG CEO Scott Lipinski, this was reason enough to double the number of participants next year to 48 German students and to travel to Scotland again.

This underlines even more clearly that the younger generation is ready to hold the fashion industry accountable and demand necessary changes. The only question is whether the industry has solutions ready?

When is something truly sustainable?

At least the industry is ready to face the questions of young people, because during the Fashion Future Conference, which took place under the motto 'Pushing Boundaries', these came up in abundance. This may be because sustainability, the central theme of the conference, is a multifaceted and often complicated one. In Scotland, it was looked at holistically, in three panel talks that offered insights into the industry in addition to various experience stations around local production methods, materials and suppliers. Everything revolved around the topics of craftsmanship, technology, diversity and circular fashion.

The fact that the invited students would not just sit still and accept what was being told to them became clear during an introductory presentation that introduced the seaweed-based dye innovation SeaDyes. After Jessica Giannotti and David Farquhar gave an insight into the start-up's work and dyeing process, it took less than ten seconds before the first student raised his hand and set the tone for the entire day: "But is the use of seaweed actually sustainable or will it eventually run out?"

The question that Giannotti and Farquhar readily answered would not be the last question of the day, which highlighted how much this young generation demands from an industry that is anything but flawless. Reason enough to pause and ask ourselves how often we simply accept the term "sustainable" instead of - like this brave student - asking the questions that might be uncomfortable.

Will the fashion industry as we know it collapse?

Discussions intensified as the first panel discussion of the day, entitled "Craft vs. Technology: Building Future-Ready Brands," began. Bringing together voices such as Harris Tweed ambassador Mark Hogarth, Clare Campbell, founder of tartan designer brand Prickly Thistle, Maria Benjamin, co-founder of Dodgson Wood farm, designer David Bamber, and Ann Claes, co-founder of Masjien, a fashion, sustainability and technology agency, it provided plenty of food for thought for the participating students. It was particularly fascinating to see how diverse the opinions were on the use of technology and its rapid advancement.

The panel agreed on one key point: craftsmanship and technology should not be seen as opposites, but as complementary forces that together promote sustainability, authenticity and consumers' connection to clothing. Nevertheless, the discussion seemed to trigger a certain unrest among the young listeners. One of the first to speak up asked whether the experts believed that the fashion industry could survive in the long term, or whether it would slowly disappear in the face of increasing technological advancement.

Although the question seemed almost apocalyptic, it is certainly a valid one, especially for those looking to enter the industry. The answer was nuanced: some aspects of the industry will undoubtedly disappear or at least change significantly - partly out of necessity. But the industry as a whole will exist as long as people want to wear clothes, and no one on the panel doubted that.

Another topic that was discussed was the role of generative artificial intelligence (AI) in the fashion industry - a development that evokes mixed feelings, especially among the younger generation. One student asked critically whether this technology undermines the basic idea of ​​craftsmanship and creativity. Bamber took the floor and found reassuring words for the worried listeners: "As skillfully as one can work with AI, the most important thing remains creativity. We will always need the creative spirit to move forward."

How diverse is the industry really?

Although the critical attitude towards artificial intelligence among the tech-savvy young generation may seem surprising, their clear demand for equality, diversity and inclusion is no longer a secret. But how are these values ​​implemented in fashion and what do they have to do with sustainability? Sevil Uguz from the interdisciplinary fashion location Platte.Berlin, the designers Kasia Kucharska and Graeme Bone and Rosie Gaunt, Manager for Sustainability, Circular Economy and Diversity, Equity and Inclusion at Manolo Blahnik, examined these questions in a panel discussion.

For Gaunt, the connection between sustainability and diversity is a key concern. She stressed that diversity, equity and inclusion (DEI) are essential to sustainable solutions and must be inextricably linked to tackling the climate crisis. She pointed to the inequality in global wealth distribution within the fashion industry: resources come predominantly from the global south, while emissions and profits are concentrated in the global north. "Today we talk about circular economy, zero waste, regenerative agriculture - all solutions to the climate crisis, especially for our industry. But all of these approaches are deeply rooted in indigenous knowledge and practices. And yet indigenous communities are often not included in the conversations. That is precisely why DEI is so crucial to sustainable business practices in any company," she explained.

Uguz made a similar argument, emphasizing fashion's role as a cultural force and advocating for a community-focused approach that reflects diversity and inclusion. She underlined that inclusion is not only an ethical imperative but also a creative and cultural necessity for a sustainable and equitable future of fashion. Two designers who have already placed sustainability and diversity at the center of their work are Kucharska and Bone. Kucharska explained how her biodegradable latex creations attract a diverse clientele and celebrate individuality and body positivity. Bone, on the other hand, explained that his approach aims to break traditional gender roles in fashion while prioritizing sustainability through locally sourced materials. Their work shows how both priorities can be successfully combined.

The topic struck a chord with students, who eagerly volunteered to ask thoughtful questions that showed their familiarity with the topic. One student asked, "Is there any focus on fabrics for people with sensory issues, or people with mobility issues who can't use buttons, or even something like maternity wear?" A question that quickly exposed the limitations of even the most thoughtful designers and highlighted a lack of diverse thinking that still exists in the industry currently, yet is difficult for a young independent brand to address - a topic that was later discussed among those in attendance, long after the question had ended.

Is there an affordable alternative to fast fashion?

Speaking of discussion, no other panel discussion of the day sparked as much discussion as “Pushing Reflection: The Transition to Circular Fashion”, where Anthony Burns, Chief Operating Officer of the EU’s largest circular fashion hub, ACS Clothing, Tamara Cincik, Professor of Fashion and Sustainability at Bath Spa University and Director of the National Centre for Fashion & Sustainability, Fashion Capital CEO Jenny Holloway and Beth Alexander from Ebay spoke about what is needed to move the industry forward towards a circular future.

The discussion revolved around innovative business models such as clothing rental, resale and repair services, which were highlighted as key strategies to reduce waste and promote responsible consumption patterns. The need for policy adjustments, such as the introduction of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) in the UK, was also addressed.

However, a key theme was also the cultural change needed to reduce overconsumption. While smaller, sustainable brands are leading the way, the experts also called for greater accountability from large fast-fashion companies like Shein. This statement received mixed reactions from the students. One student explained: "We buy from Shein because it is cheap. We cannot afford to buy from sustainable brands. Shein may offer cheap quality and may not last long, but it is affordable."

This objection, as well as the subsequent discussions about alternatives such as second-hand clothing and investing in more durable one-off pieces, highlighted the gap between the experts' perspectives and the students' reality. The experts acknowledged the relevance of the question, but a real solution was elusive for the time being. The German students went home with a strengthened sense of pride and enthusiasm for upcycling. At the Dumfries House Atelier, they had the opportunity to create new creations from used clothing from eBay. Nevertheless, the question of sustainable and affordable solutions for providers such as Shein remains a relevant topic that will certainly be discussed again in the future. Some of the students left inspired, with the intention of purchasing a sewing machine and buying more second-hand fashion in the future.

During the second half of the day, the students no longer participated actively, but the questions they raised were not forgotten and remained a central part of the discussions. The students' thoughts, questions and feedback were collected throughout the day in an online form, the results of which were incorporated into the afternoon roundtable discussions with the experts. Over coffee and tea, concrete measures were defined that are to be implemented by the next conference next year. The results of these discussions will be published in the next few days and made available to both the participants and the extended network of the King's Foundation and the Fashion Council Germany in the areas of education, production, design, politics and beyond.

It will be exciting to see how much of this can be realized by the next conference and what new topics will occupy young people by then.

This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.DE, translated and edited to English.

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