Fashion without humans? AI models and the future of an industry

A perfect smile, a flawless body, an outfit that fits like a glove. The image looks normal in an online shop; after all, it is a model. Or is it? Increasingly, these images are not created by real people, but by artificial intelligence (AI). Companies are using AI more and more in their online shops, promising speed, efficiency and lower costs. For models worldwide, this raises a fundamental question: will the industry even need real people in front of the camera in the future?

AI in the daily life of international models

“AI is no longer a topic for the future. It is already part of our daily work,” Ukrainian model Stasya tells the German Press Agency. She has worked as an international model for several years, most recently for an extended period in China. She experienced the AI transformation particularly clearly there, with faces being digitally transferred onto other bodies after shoots. Working hours have also been shortened, which she sees as a consequence of using AI. This raises serious ethical and legal questions.

Clients are also now presenting contracts that explicitly permit the use of models' faces for AI purposes. “You think about job security and whether you can still earn enough in the future,” she reports. Simultaneously, she sees a potential market shift. AI could accelerate standardised mass production, while high-quality campaigns with real teams and physical sets could gain exclusivity.

Diversity: Real variety already exists

Berlin-based model Annika Schnauffer does not see AI as a dominant threat. Competitive pressure is already a given in an overcrowded industry. It often remains unclear whether a job is lost because of AI. She can most easily imagine digital figures in standardised e-commerce, where large quantities of images are produced with little creative scope. Schnauffer is critical of the diversity debate. AI can simulate diversity, but she notes, “there are enough people and models that you could book for real”.

AI has already arrived in German e-commerce

AI models are no longer a vision of the future in Germany. Hamburg-based retailer Otto already uses generative AI to create photorealistic model images of synthetic, fictional people, according to the company. This allows new collections to be made available online within a few hours. Its use is limited to the online shop and only for product presentations where real people were not previously featured, the company states. AI primarily fills the gaps where traditional photo productions reach their economic or organisational limits.

Online fashion retailer Zalando is taking a different approach. The company works with digital twins of real models, according to its statements. These high-resolution 3D replicas are created based on traditional photoshoots. Real people continue to be in front of the camera for creative campaigns. The company states that it only uses purely AI-generated models without a real-life counterpart in exceptional cases, for instance, to avoid shoots with children or to react quickly to trends.

Model agencies between resistance and adaptation

The debate within model agencies is running in parallel, focusing less on technology and more on rights. “We are not currently experiencing a massive loss of bookings,” says Carlos Streil, a model scout at Frankfurt-based agency East West Models. However, there have been enquiries, including from major clients, with contracts requiring models to cede rights for AI use, such as for data collection and subsequent use as an AI model. These agreements have been rejected. In principle, however, the agency is not against AI, as long as avatars are created based on real models and the models continue to be paid.

Carmen Weigel, head of the Berlin-based model agency BMM, argues with similar pragmatism. She considers Zalando's approach promising. Digital avatars of real models could be licensed without the models having to be physically present on set. This is economically attractive, as licensing fees are often higher than traditional day rates. However, she does not expect a widespread displacement of real people. For Weigel, modelling is more than being photogenic: “For me, a model is more of a talent,” she says. “It is not just about being beautiful, but about charisma, posture and the potential for identification.”

Legal aspects: Labelling, consent and guidelines

Legally, much remains unresolved, especially the question of how AI-supported content in e-commerce must be labelled. Weigel calls for clear labelling and warns against new, even more unrealistic body images, with consequences for models and young women who would end up comparing themselves to computers.

Although she believes this is difficult to regulate by law, agencies must be particularly cautious when licensing their models' images for AI avatars that could be resold to brands. Models need to understand exactly what is happening with their face and be adequately compensated. Weigel also points to the long-term dimension. A face, once digitised, could continue to be used long after death, making informed consent and clear contractual limits all the more important.

Otto describes the debate in Germany and the EU as being “in flux”. Binding regulations and guidelines for e-commerce have not yet been finalised. While Zalando emphasises its commitment to transparency, it still sees grey areas. For digital twins based on real models and real clothing, where AI only supports parts of the production, the label “AI-generated” can sometimes fall short.

Customer decides

Ultimately, it is the market, not technology alone, that decides, says Streil. Weigel agrees: “In the end, customers vote with their wallets.” Brands have already experienced how public pressure can change strategies. Weigel points to “Victoria's Secret”. After criticism of its narrow beauty ideal in the 2010s, customers turned away, sales fell and its image faltered.

How the industry will continue to develop remains to be seen. For Schnauffer, it is also a question of power: “In the end, as a model, you are somewhat at the mercy of how the industry moves forward.” The decisive factor will likely be whether clear rules can be established for consent, use and remuneration when faces become data.

This article was translated to English using an AI tool.

OR CONTINUE WITH

Artificial Intelligence

E-commerce

Model

Otto

Zalando