Good On You report reveals “alarming” gaps between fashion industry’s environmental commitments and actions
Sustainability ratings company Good On You has released its Fashion Planet Benchmark Report, which has analysed data from more than 5,400 large (1,372) and small brands (4,032; based on annual turnover) in terms of emissions tracking, supply chain transparency and circular design initiatives. The report reveals “alarming” gaps between the fashion industry’s environmental commitments and its actions, especially in the three key areas overall planet impacts, supply chain accountability and circular economy initiatives. It also shows where brands could lead the way.
One of the report’s key findings is that large fashion brands score just 30 percent on average for environmental impact measures, while small brands perform better at 46 percent. Another realisation is that a majority (88 percent) of brands with emissions targets do not disclose any progress toward meeting them.
Despite extensive talk about circularity, only 6 percent of large brands are investing in research and development for circular innovations, only 3 percent of them offer rental schemes and just 13 percents have resale programs.
“The numbers say it all. Sadly, the industry is far behind where it needs to be to protect the environment and our future,” comments Good On You co-founder Sandra Capponi in a press release. “Without stronger action and systemic changes, the industry risks losing the trust of consumers, investors and regulators—all while undermining the resilience of its own supply chains. Fashion simply can't continue down this path.”
Material choices of large vs. smaller brands
In terms of materials, “if it feels like most large brands’ ‘sustainability’ actions tend to be the adoption of recycled polyester, you are not wrong—that is the most commonly adopted lower impact material by large brands,” finds the Good On You report.
At 65 percent, recycled polyester is the most commonly used lower impact material by large brands, followed by organic cotton (52 percent), linen/flax (38 percent), BCI cotton (22 percent), recycled nylon (21 percent), Tencel Lyocell (18 percent), other recycled /upcycled material (17 percent), recycled cotton (13 percent), Tencel Modal (12 percent), Ecovero (11 percent), recycled wool (4 percent), hemp/jute (3 percent) and CmiA cotton (
For smaller brands, the scenario looks different with organic cotton being the most popular lower impact material (59 percent), followed by recycled polyester (46 percent). Other recycled/upcycled materials can be found in third and at 34 percent, are twice as likely to be used by smaller brands than by large brands. In fourth place, linen/flax (29 percent), followed by Tencel Lyocell (18 percent), recycled cotton (15 percent), recycled nylon (14 percent), Ecovero and Tencel Modal (12 percent each), BCI cotton (6 percent), hemp/jute (5 percent), recycled wool (4 percent), organic linen (2 percent) and organic hemp, CmiA cotton, PLA, Monocel and ramie at about 1 percent.
Pathways for the future
Apart from highlighting problems, the benchmark report also provides clear pathways for improvement, emphasising where major players can step up to demonstrate true leadership, for example when taking more responsibility to collaborate with and support their manufacturers and suppliers for greater supply chain transparency.
“A more holistic approach starts with integrating siloed sustainability teams and standalone environmental goals in the wider business strategy, with incentives for executives to prioritise investment in solutions proven to work in the biggest emissions hotspots and that have social and environmental benefits,” advises Ruth MacGilp, fashion campaign manager at Action Speaks Louder.
The complete Fashion Planet Benchmark report is available in the Good On You journal on the Good On You website.
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