In France: Tensions mount around the financing of textile sorting

The amount paid by the eco-organisation Refashion to textile sorting stakeholders will increase from 156 euros to 223 euros per tonne in France. This increase is vital for a sector under strain, which has been reporting insufficient support in the region for months.

“The difficulties began in the summer of 2024 for us and for the entire industry,” said Emmanuel Pilloy, president of Le Relais France, a network of textile sorting companies, in an interview with FashionUnited. “There has been a decline in activity. Recycling prices and prices for certain categories are falling. Demand is decreasing, and as a result, prices are falling.”

In January 2024, sorting stakeholders received additional support, “but it was insufficient for us,” Pilloy believes. This aid raised the amount per tonne of sorted textiles from 125 euros to 156 euros. However, this increase only became active in January 2025 on the 2024 tonnage, the executive explained. “So, for more than eight months, we have been telling the eco-organisation that it is not enough and that it will not work.”

According to Pilloy, the necessary money is there, but the amounts collected by Refashion are not being correctly redistributed to the sorting operators. The eco-organisation collects four centimes per item sold by distributors. According to Refashion’s 2024 activity report, the amount of eco-contributions totalled 139.1 million euros. “Today, they have in reserve almost five or six times the 2024 contribution. The money is available. There is no need to ask consumers for more.”

In its defence, Refashion said in a recent statement: “Le Relais, a historical player in the social and solidarity economy, alone concentrates nearly 70 percent of the textile and footwear volumes collected by social and solidarity economy structures. Le Relais is part of the social and solidarity economy branch of the Emmaüs movement [an international non-profit organisation that began in France, dedicated to fighting poverty and homelessness, ed.] and is also part of FEDERREC Textile [a French federation representing recycling enterprises, ed.], which it chairs, making it a dominant player in the sector. Le Relais managers are also responsible for the proper management of their structure and the sustainability of the resulting jobs.”

Refashion also criticises the massive export of used clothing to Africa carried out by sorting organisations. In the same statement, the eco-organisation asserts that these exports are no longer viable, either economically or ecologically, and that “persisting in this direction means continuing to maintain a system on life support, and that is the real danger.”

To the question, “Can the increasing restrictions on the export of used clothing, particularly to Africa, pose a problem for Le Relais?”, Pilloy answers, “No.” However, the executive explains that some of the textiles that are too damaged are recycled in another form (into solid recovered fuel, or SRF), but specifies a regulatory limit: the specifications stipulate that a maximum of 10 percent of the textiles collected can be used for this energy recovery. “We have to find outlets for 90 percent,” he explains. “These outlets are not in France.”

Rep reform in 2026

In 2026, the Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) scheme for the textile, household linen and footwear sector is expected to be redesigned. This overhaul could oblige Refashion to pay a minimum percentage directly to sorting/reuse operators like Le Relais.

Furthermore, the contribution is currently based solely on sorting. There is a whole area of Le Relais’ activity that is not supported, particularly collection. This could change with the EPR reform. “So we have to hold on until 2026,” he concludes.

Finally, the new specifications that Refashion is currently working on will, among other things, allow for more textiles and footwear to be recycled in France and Europe, significantly reduce the use of exports, and ensure fair and sustainable funding for all operators.

Today, Le Relais is increasing its sorting capacity and opening more of its Ding Fring stores, its secondhand retail branch. The organisation has also modernised and expanded its shops. Between four and five new shops have opened or are due to open this year, a similar figure to last year.