Labels To Watch: 5 South African brands that reflect the richness of Africa’s fashion

South Africa Fashion Week (SAFW) has enjoyed a good reputation for decades. Founded in 1997 by Lucilla Booyzen, the biannual event takes place in both Johannesburg and Cape Town and presents an important opportunity for retailers to discover the richness of African fashion.

South Africa is a breeding ground for fashion talent. According to fashion designers from the country, social and ecological awareness play a major role in the local fashion industry. This means that sustainability is a given and local production is of central importance.

This year, the shows of SAFW for SS24 took place from 18 to 20 April at the Mall of Africa in Midrand, Johannesburg. Here are five inspiring fashion labels to remember from this season.

Viviers

Viviers was founded in 2019 by Lezanne Viviers. The label's clothing is "infused with masculine, traditional tailoring and organically draped, flowing pieces that are often associated with conventional femininity", according to the founder. 


During the SS24 fashion show at SAFW on 19 April, Viviers presented an impressive collection. "The interplay between traditional and conventional, the constant balancing between these extremes is evident in our choice of fabrics: organic and natural fibres made from technical and industrial fabrics, such as upcycled nylon or recycled plastic," explained the designer. 


Gugubygugu

South African fashion designer Gugu Peteni, who presented her SS24 collection at SAFW on 20 April, has several years of experience in the fashion industry. She studied fashion and textile design at Nelson Mandela University before working for three years as a designer and retail manager for the international mohair manufacturing company Mohair SA. In 2019 she founded her fashion label Gugubygugu.

The SS24 collection entitled ‘Manufactured not Made’ is a luxury streetwear collection for men. With the collection, Peteni wanted to show the process behind the scenes of clothing production and depicted parts of this process in the designs of her garments. 


"The aim is to shed light on the process of creating a collection. By revealing the process behind my designs, the work is more respected. So why not strip away the layers and show what it really takes to make a garment? This collection invites you into my studio, where each piece tells a story and gives an insight into the world of manufacturing," said Petini.

Isabel de Villiers

"Buy less, buy better" is Isabel de Villiers' slogan. She is the owner of the fashion brand of the same name and one of the most size-inclusive designers at SAFW. Founded in Cape Town and now based in Pretoria, the brand produces fashion for women of "all shapes and sizes". The design aesthetic consists of clean lines and figure-flattering silhouettes, while signature pieces include laser-cut garments.

"We were inspired by the African art world and the resulting techniques. We have incorporated the Punch Needle work of local artisans, Julie Punch Baby, into our Fashion Week collection," explained the designer. "We are also collaborating with The Sijwa Project on hand-embroidered Pan-African pieces. These pieces are very special and showcase the craftsmanship and skill of African artisans," she added. 


The brand produces everything itself. "It's so nice to have the entire process under one roof. We only produce a small quantity of each item to ensure quality and exclusivity," said de Villiers.

Belhauzen

Belhauzen is a label aimed at people who like eye-catching fashion but also value durability and timeless design. "These are people who want to invest in high-quality pieces that are not only fashionable, but also durable. Innovation is combined with environmental awareness," explained founder Belinda Venter. 


"This discerning audience appreciates fashion that promotes and expresses individuality while having a positive impact on our planet. They are not just buying clothes, they are investing in a sustainable and stylish future." 


Fashion label Belhauzen presented a unique blend of African fashion and modern style at SAFW on 18 April. "I use bright colours, bold patterns and traditional African fabrics and motifs. Each piece tells a story. It celebrates the rich cultural heritage and diversity of African art and craftsmanship," explained founder Venter. 


Heart & Heritage

Lesley Whitter is the founder of Johannesburg fashion label Heart & Heritage. On the news platform Twyg, you can read how Whitter worked for years in her mother's basement to build the brand since it was founded in 2013. On 20 April, she presented her SS24 collection at SAFW. 


For the SS24 collection at SAFW, the brand showcased a range of handmade garments, such as hand-painted fabrics. According to Whitter, the limited availability makes wearing the designs exclusive. 


The founder's designs are inspired by the diversity of her South African clientele and their stories, said Whitter. "Our surroundings inspire us. We design for all fits, including African ones," the designer added. 


This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.NL. Translation and edit by: Rachel Douglass.