LuisaViaRoma Buying Director: “We need to rethink and refocus luxury as a dream“

The Fashion Week season for autumn/winter 2025 is drawing to a close. The big shows from New York to Paris are over and now it's time to see which trends will make the leap from the catwalk to the shops. Marta Gramaccioni recaps the season.

In this interview, the Buying Director of LuisaViaRoma reveals her FW25 highlights, how the Italian fashion retailer is reacting to the current buying restraint in the luxury segment, and which pieces are performing well.

What do you take away from the FW25 womenswear season?

This season felt like a moment of transition for many brands. We saw a lot of debuts, as well as brands without a clear creative direction or even without presentations. Many designers focused on consolidating their brand identities rather than chasing trends, with an emphasis on craftsmanship and a refined take on femininity. There was a balance between modernity and heritage, making this a season of both reflection and transformation.

What were your highlights?

Looking across New York, Milan and Paris, there were standout moments in every city. In New York, the debut of Veronica Leoni at Calvin Klein was chic and well-executed, while Khaite delivered one of its strongest shows to date. Milan intrigued us with Prada, Jil Sander and Ferragamo, but it was Paris where we saw the most impactful presentations. Haider Ackermann's debut at Tom Ford was a major highlight, Miu Miu once again defined what is cool and how we should dress, while Valentino continued its evolution with an incredibly sophisticated show.

Which trends define the season?

This season brought back classic tailoring with a ‘60s-inspired twist—more fitted silhouettes and structured coats. Fur remains key, whether in eco-fur, shaved shearling or oversized coats. There was also a strong play on textures, deconstructed shapes, and pajama-inspired dressing with exaggerated volumes. Other key elements include suede pieces, ultra-flat boots, statement eyewear, and full leather looks.

Did certain colours stand out?

The season was dominated by neutrals, but with standout pops of deep reds, warm caramel, and icy blues that added contrast and energy to the collections.

There is currently a lot of discussion about whether the time for big trends is over. What do you think?

While fashion is becoming more about individuality and personal expression rather than singular trends, there are still key elements — whether in materials, silhouettes, or styling — that we see repeated across collections. These can’t be ignored and naturally emerge as defining trends of the season.

What was the last ‘big trend’ for you?

The quiet luxury movement was the last major trend that had a widespread impact — timeless, understated pieces with impeccable quality. Now, however, we see a return to expressive fashion, where personal style takes center stage.

Have you discovered new talents?

Absolutely. This season introduced several emerging designers with fresh perspectives, such as Recto for clothing, Jude for shoes, Maeden for bags.

Will you be adding new brands to your portfolio?

This season, more than ever, we have invested in new brands, strengthening almost every womenswear category. We are always on the lookout for fresh perspectives and designers who bring something unique to the table.

Have there been any changes in your budget planning?

The market is constantly evolving, and we are adjusting our strategy accordingly. Overall, our budget remains in line with SS25 but has been reduced compared to FW24. Our focus is on rebalancing investments across different brands, categories, and price points to ensure a curated and commercially strong offer.

Which pieces are currently doing well at LuisaViaRoma?

Right now, we are in the middle of SS25 sales. Initially, customers were focused on transeasonal pieces like mid-season coats, leather jackets and workwear-inspired outerwear. Now, they are shifting towards daywear from new brands, ballet flats, ultra-soft suede bags and dresses.

What is the overall mood of your customers?

Our customers love to mix and match different brands and price points, creating unique and unexpected combinations. There is a strong desire for individuality, where personal styling choices define the look rather than following a single aesthetic.

Is there also a noticeable reluctance to shop in the luxury sector?

Right now, the luxury sector has lost some of its appeal — exclusivity is not necessarily desirable anymore. We need to rethink and refocus luxury as a dream, something aspirational yet still accessible within its new pricing dynamics. It’s about bringing back the magic while adapting to today’s reality.

This interview was conducted in written form.