Milan Men's Fashion Week navigates global turbulence and industry evolution

Against a backdrop of unprecedented global events — from devastating Los Angeles wildfires that have imperiled the city's robust retail infrastructure to a geopolitical ceasefire in the Middle East and a pivotal US presidential transition — Milan Men's Fashion Week stands at a critical juncture, demonstrating the resilience of luxury fashion amid global uncertainty.

The traditional stronghold of Italian menswear and its January fashion week has witnessed a big transformation. The decision by luxury powerhouses Tom Ford and Gucci to consolidate their shows into co-ed presentations, following similar moves by Fendi, Jil Sander and DSquared2, signals a broader industry shift. This restructuring reflects both changing consumer patterns and the fashion industry's adaptation to new market dynamics. Industry speculation continues to surround Jil Sander, where design duo Lucy and Luke Meiers are reportedly set to exit. Market observers suggest Daniel Lee, whose tenure at Burberry remains subject to conjecture, could assume the creative helm.

The economics of runway presentations have become increasingly challenging for emerging designers, who face production costs often exceeding 100,000 euros per show. In an era of digital innovation and direct-to-consumer strategies, many promising talents are exploring alternative presentation formats that offer greater return on investment. This evolution raises fundamental questions about the future viability of traditional fashion week structures, especially in Milan, which remains rooted in classicism.

Italy's heritage houses show strength

This season the condensed calendar yielded unexpected benefits for Italy's heritage houses. Prada, now under creative stewardship of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, has reported robust growth in menswear, while Giorgio Armani continues to demonstrate the enduring appeal of Italian tailoring in contemporary markets. Brunello Cucinelli, whose luxury casualwear has resonated strongly with post-pandemic consumers, has seen its share price rise double digits year-on-year, underscoring the resilience of well-positioned luxury brands.

Emerging labels like London-based JordanLuca and Pierre-Louis Mascia represent a new guard of designers who have successfully navigated the changing landscape. Mascia's sophisticated print aesthetic has already captured the attention of premium retailers such as Holt Renfrew, while the streamlined calendar allows buyers to discover emerging talent with fresh perspectives.

Collections signal return to craftsmanship

The autumn/winter 2025 collections presented a compelling case for sartorial excellence over marketing-driven fashion. Prada masterfully merged Americana with European sophistication in their western-influenced collection. Deconstructed blazers paired with off-colour cowboy boots demonstrated heritage houses can innovate within traditional frameworks. Statement outerwear, particularly evident in coats with generously cut shearling collars, speaks to the 8.5bn euro global luxury outerwear market's continued strength.

Corneliani reimagined the traditional runway format through collaboration with Central School of Ballet's artistic director Kate Coyne. This innovative showcase, where dancers performed in the collection, highlighted the technical sophistication of Italian tailoring through movement. The house's exploration of proportions — juxtaposing slim-cut trousers against generous outerwear — reflects contemporary dress codes while honoring tailoring traditions.

The emphasis on traditional Italian textiles — gabardine, tricotine, and cover armatures — underscores luxury's renewed focus on materiality and craftsmanship. These choices not only celebrate Italy's textile heritage but address growing consumer demand for sustainable, durable investments.

Armani's Enduring Influence

Giorgio Armani's collection resonated with particular poignancy, evoking the revolutionary spirit of American Gigolo, the film that helped establish his global reputation. The presence of Adrien Brody, Joe Alwyn, and Matt Smith in the front row — collectively commanding over 50 million social media followers — demonstrated the house's enduring cultural relevance. Chunky cardigans reimagined as outerwear and softly tailored pieces in a palette of greys, browns, blues, and greens showcased the designer's ability to evolve while maintaining brand identity.

Industry Evolution

The leaner Milan Men's Fashion Week, concentrated over a long weekend, reflects broader shifts within the 280bn euro global luxury market. As the industry navigates artificial intelligence integration, digital acceleration, and evolving consumer preferences, the transformation of fashion weeks may indicate luxury's future direction.

The week concluded with an unexpected theatrical flourish as British designers Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto of JordanLuca celebrated their nuptials at their show's finale, adding a personal dimension to the professional proceedings and highlighting fashion's capacity for both commerce and emotion.

This season demonstrated Milan's ability to balance tradition with innovation, suggesting that while the format of fashion weeks may evolve, the city's role in defining global menswear remains assured.