New bill introduced in California aims to tackle environmental exploitation in fast fashion

A new piece of legislation has been introduced in California aiming to tackle fast fashion’s "environmental destruction” and the industry’s “role in generating textile waste, natural resources pollution and exploitative labour practices”. The bill, AB 405, was backed by assemblymember Dawn Addis and is now awaiting a referral to its first policy committee.

Dubbed the ‘Fashion Environmental Accountability Act’, the bill would require fashion sellers to publish environmental due diligence reports to be assessed and overseen by the Department of Toxic Substances Control. The organisation would hold jurisdiction over the industry’s reports on chemical management, greenhouse gas emissions and waste-water testing. Sellers would have to follow specified guidelines and embed responsible business conduct in their policies while identifying areas of significant risks in regards to societal and ecological harms.

If passed, beginning July 1, 2027, sellers operating in the region would need to annually submit to the department an Environmental Due Diligence report in which they must outline a quantitative baseline for their emission reduction targets for their scope 1, 2 and 3 divisions. Later, from January 1, 2028, sellers would then need to expand their reach, requiring for their suppliers in tier 2 dyeing, finishing, printing and garment washing to also annually report on water usage and chemical concentrations.

Those in violation of the requirements would be subject to a civil penalty of up to 2 percent of their annual revenue, and would be called on to establish solutions for the violation. Such fines will contribute to the Fashion Environmental Remediation Fund, which will be used to implement the act and for “more environmental benefit or environmental remediation projects” to benefit impacted communities.

In a release announcing the act’s introduction, Addis said: “Fast fashion has fueled a global crisis. We cannot stand by while companies profit from depleting natural resources, and using toxic chemicals that pollute and harm our environment and people. The Fashion Environmental Accountability Act will hold them accountable."

California has been swiftly marching ahead compared to other US states, with a string of environmentally- and ethically-minded bills both in discussion and already passed, each intended to establish a more eco-friendly fashion industry. Among them are the Climate Corporate Data Accountability Act and the Garment Worker Protection Act.