New report finds Leicester garment exploitation claims overstated

A new review presented to UK Parliament has found that allegations of worker exploitation and modern slavery in Leicester’s garment sector were not supported by evidence from formal investigations.

The report, ‘Lessons Learned from Operation Tacit’, published in November 2025 by the director of labour market enforcement, Margaret Beels, suggests that while some labour non-compliance occurred, the scale and severity may have been overstated and were comparable to other UK manufacturing industries.

Operation Tacit was launched in 2020 in response to media reports and political concerns surrounding claims of exploitation against garment workers in Leicester, England. Several enforcement agencies were brought together in an operation that Beels’ report now suggests was initiated quickly, before a full assessment of evidence or risks could be completed.

Between 2020 and 2023, one watchdog visited 318 factories, identifying 199,515 pounds in underpayments, while another conducted 524 visits before opening four modern slavery investigations, resulting in one Slavery and Trafficking Risk Order. The report states that the overall level of non-compliance was lower than the average found in other sectors.

Findings show low levels of serious exploitation

Another assessment carried out by the National Crime Agency in 2021 also found that while some poor employment practices existed, the prevalence of modern slavery or human trafficking in the industry appeared low. According to Beels, describing such practices in this way may have overstated the situation and could have seen resources diverted from more severe cases.

Leicester’s garment sector has historically consisted of small manufacturers that supply large retailers. The report highlights issues such as low pay, limited language skills, and competitive pressures linked to fast fashion production, but notes that these factors don’t necessarily indicate exploitation. The review also reported a lowering in local manufacturing capacity since 2020, as supply chains evolved and economic pressures took hold.

Responding to the report, Fashion-Enter Ltd founder and chair of the Apparel and Textile Manufacturers Federation, Jenny Holloway, said the findings absolved businesses facing reputational damage due to the allegations. “These are hardworking, skilled, ethical factories that have been penalised unnecessarily – they are owed an apology,” she added.

Beels ultimately concludes that long-term improvement in Leicester’s garment sector will rely on collaboration between businesses, regulators, and local authorities, further backed by evidence-based enforcement. The report states: “There are useful initiatives underway to support the growth of a compliant garment industry in Leicester and these need to be encouraged.”