Putting priorities back into production

How can garment manufacturers enable environmental transformation? And how can they do this in a nationally coordinated, structured and country-specific way? This is why the manufacturer-led ATTI platform (Apparel and Textile Transformation Initiative) was conceived a couple of years ago and officially established as an organisation in 2025. Its progress in pilot chapters in Bangladesh and Turkey was discussed at a side session of the OECD Forum on Due Diligence in the Garment and Footwear Sector on Monday, 9th February 2026.

Olivia Windham-Stewart opened the session by introducing ATTI as a pivotal development in the global garment sector. The independent senior advisor for human rights and environmental sustainability emphasised that the initiative aims to replace "fragmented, brand-driven standards" with a "unified, nationally coherent" approach. Thus, the core philosophy of ATTI is to move beyond mere compliance towards a deeper, more systemic environmental transformation.

"We are very much trying to shift the vibe away from compliance and develop a platform that enables manufacturers themselves to identify the priorities for the industry,” explained Windham-Stewart the initiative’s unique position as a manufacturer-led programme, supported by the International Apparel Federation (IAF) and the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF).

Empowering manufacturers in the Bangladeshi context

Vidiya Khan, vice president of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), underscored the importance of manufacturer leadership in a landscape often dictated by external requirements. She views ATTI as a platform that empowers local industry bodies to advocate for their own interests and priorities. For Khan, the initiative is about reclaiming the narrative of the Bangladeshi garment sector and ensuring that transformation efforts are grounded in the actual capabilities and challenges of local factories.

To ensure the initiative’s success, the Bangladesh chapter, which is led by BGMEA and BKMEA (Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association) has commissioned a comprehensive needs assessment to identify specific barriers to progress. This data-driven approach is intended to provide the association with the evidence needed to engage effectively with both brands and the national government. Highlighting the self-determined nature of this work, Khan stated: "This is about manufacturers generating insights for manufacturers, ensuring that our strategies are grounded in industry realities and priorities."

Diagnostic methodologies and evidence-based planning

Mahmudul Hasan of Engineering Resources International (ERI), the Bangladeshi consultancy firm supporting the ATTI Bangladesh chapter, detailed the technical methodology deployed to conduct the needs assessment in Bangladesh. The process is divided into two distinct phases: evidence and diagnostics, followed by validation and prioritisation. This rigorous framework ensures that the eventual transformation plan is not based on assumptions but on a nuanced understanding of the sector’s current state across five key pillars: data, capacity, technology, finance and policy.

A critical element of this assessment is the inclusion of perspectives from across the management spectrum, ensuring a holistic view of factory operations. By surveying both senior and middle management, the project captures a balance between high-level strategy and day-to-day implementation hurdles. Hassan explained the value of this approach: "This structure allows us to capture both strategic and operational perspectives," which is essential for identifying realistic pathways for systemic change.

Pioneering implementation strategies in Turkey

Mehmet Kaya, chair of ITHIB's sustainability chapter (Istanbul Apparel Exporters Association), shared insights from the Turkish pilot chapter, which has already progressed to the solutions design phase. Having conducted its needs assessment earlier in 2025, Turkey is now developing a transformation plan prototype focusing on energy, water and wastewater. This work is deeply embedded in ITHIB’s broader sustainability strategy and involves a wide array of local stakeholders, including government ministries and domestic industry bodies.

The Turkish model introduces three distinct implementation approaches: transversal, systemic and tailored, allowing for flexibility depending on whether a facility is located within an organised industrial zone or not. These models reflect the structural complexity of the Turkish industry and aim to scale solutions effectively across the entire sector. Kaya emphasised the importance of practical execution over theoretical goals: "The key methodological question is not only what and which interventions are applied, but rather how to implement them effectively and at scale."

Collaboration and the future of industry due diligence

During the concluding discussion, the speakers addressed the critical role of brands and governments in the transformation process. They argued that while manufacturers are stepping up to lead, brands must move beyond individual pilots and commit to shared responsibility, particularly regarding investment and long-term targets. The discussion highlighted that ATTI makes due diligence more effective by providing a platform for genuine dialogue rather than a checklist of external mandates, ensuring environmental goals are achieved without compromising commercial viability.

The session concluded with a call for greater global collaboration and the expansion of the ATTI model to other production hubs. By leveraging the expertise of national associations, the industry can create more resilient and sustainable supply chains that reflect local realities. As the sector moves forward, the success of these manufacturer-led initiatives will depend on a paradigm shift where, as the panel suggests, "transformation priorities are coordinated nationally, reducing fragmentation and duplication so that we are able to streamline our efforts.”

More information about the initiative’s timeline, phases, structure and approach can be found on the official website, attransformation.org.