Re;code, Everything is Material

Each month Sass Brown, an expert in ethical fashion, sustainability and craftsmanship, shares a fashion brand that approaches business differently and innovatively or operates outside of the main fashion systems and capitals. Sass is the former Dean of Art and Design at the Fashion Institute of Technology and the founding Dean at Dubai Institute of Design and Innovation.

Re;code is based in Seoul, Korea and part of a larger conglomerate called Kolon Industries. Their focus is working with upcycled, revalued, discarded, and unused materials. Sass describes Re;code further stating, “they utilize the dead stock and the wasted materials from the other labels that are produced under the same umbrella company, from their own warehouse. Additionally, they use military waste and industrial waste, including things like car seat covers, airbags and seat belts; all quite unique material sources.”

Additionally, Re;code will use post-consumer waste as well, which adds to their overall aesthetic. Sass describes the process as one of “dismantling, reconstructing and redesigning. You'll often see half a jacket front, which is inside out, or pocket details appliqued on top of a sweater or shirt. You can see the reconstruction quite clearly in their aesthetic.”

Often, when designers use waste, their vision is very much driven by the materials available, thus defining the aesthetic. Sass emphasizes, “That's always the case when you're talking about upcycling coming from limited resources, especially when you're talking about offcuts of fabrics, where they may be awkward sizes or shapes, and you have limited quantities.” But, she adds, “Re;code do very much have their own aesthetic and distinct style.” As part of the Re;code brand many pieces in the collection come with a label that states the amount of a style made, whether it’s four six pieces, adding to the exclusivity of the brand.

In addition to their own work, Re;code is also developing a reputation for eye-catching collaborations. Most recently they worked with Nike, where they upcycled, wasted garments into entirely redesigned, reconstructed pieces that were very uniquely Re;code, even though they were constructed from wasted garments and materials from Nike.

Additionally, the Re;code team engages in other projects or spin-offs of their brand. For example, ReCollection is a customization service. Customers can bring in any garment from any brand to be redesigned, remade and customized. Sass exclaims, “It's a fabulous service for reusing those 20 odd garments in the back of your wardrobe that you've never worn and never will wear.” ANother project is called ReNano, a smaller line focused on using subsidiary materials like labels, buttons and zippers.

Re;code also offers consumer experiences, including workshops, pop-ups and art showcases. It’s an opportunity for them to show and share their skills, as well as exhibit their work. Most recently, they opened a new art space, a collaboration with a leading contemporary art museum in Seoul called ReSpace, showing fashion in an art context. “There are so many different components to what they do, which I think makes them very accessible,” says Sass. “You may not be buying one of their six handmade, deconstructed redesigned jackets, for example, but you could go participate in one of the workshops or shows. Or, you can even shop materials from one of their vending machines, a concept that came out of lockdown!”

When asked what brands and organizations can learn from Re;code, Sass is enthusiastic that their model of waste usage is most interesting. She explains, “Many labels fall under the umbrella of Kolon Industries, all of which are making waste. So, Re;code capitalizes on the waste of those other brands. And I think that's a fantastic model for anyone who's producing fashion, to develop another label that's based on the waste that they produce.”