Sustainable transport or greenwashing? Lufthansa Cargo and Shein’s agreement raises questions

Lufthansa Cargo, the European leader in air freight and the freight division of Lufthansa Group, has committed to ensuring the international delivery of ultra fast fashion brand Shein’s items, by progressively using sustainable aviation fuel.

This agreement illustrates the paradox between political regulation and economic interests. It has already drawn criticism from the Fédération Française du Prêt à Porter Féminin (FFPAPF).

A memorandum of understanding (MoU), signed on August 19, 2025, indicates that within the next six months, the two partners must define and implement concrete actions.

Supply of sustainable aviation fuel (SAF), a fuel produced from renewable raw materials (used oils, agricultural residues, waste, biomass, or even e-fuels based on green hydrogen and captured CO₂).

Official recording of the volumes of sustainable aviation fuel consumed, certified by “Proof of Sustainability”. These certificates are based on standards that allow for the tracking and documentation of emission reductions achieved compared to conventional kerosene.

Strengthening the traceability of operational and environmental data. The stated objective is to provide transparency on the environmental and logistical impact of air transport for Shein’s items.

Political will and economic stakes

This agreement, as the press release states, “establishes Lufthansa Cargo as a central player in the logistics of Shein’s items”. However, on January 29, 2025, the German government officially announced a comprehensive action plan to regulate online commerce, aligning with the action taken by the European Commission.

The paradox lies in the gap between the stated political objective of regulating ultra fast fashion players and the economic realities of large groups that rely on these same platforms to develop their business. As a reminder, Lufthansa Cargo belongs to Lufthansa Group, which owns, among others, Lufthansa, SWISS, Austrian Airlines, and Brussels Airlines. Beyond freight transport, the group carried over 130 million passengers in 2024 (source: Lufthansa Group’s 2024 annual report).

Greenwashing according to the Fédération Française du Prêt à Porter Féminin

“We are witnessing the worst kind of hypocrisy: how does transporting polyester and disposable products with kerosene that consumes less CO₂ make them more ecological?” Yann Rivoallan, an outspoken critic of ultra fast fashion and president of the FFPAPF, told FashionUnited. “It is, pardon my French, ‘putting lipstick on a pig’”.

“This multinational is enticed by the constantly growing flights of ultra fast fashion players. To give themselves a clear conscience or to meet certain standards, they dare to use the weapon of greenwashing. Let's not be fooled by these actions,” he added. “The only way to return to an ecological fashion, with quality products, is to block Shein. This is how we protect consumers and European jobs.”

This article was translated to English using an AI tool.

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