Timely and timeless: Experience new and old mid-range brands and learn about Japanese fashion culture

Japan's mid-market brands offer a compelling alternative in today's fashion landscape, which is dominated by mass production, overconsumption and the display of status on social media. These brands embody a philosophy of high quality, understated style and contemporary relevance.

Mid-market brands were once central to the Japanese apparel market. They ceded their leading position from the 1990s onwards with the rise of inexpensive imported clothing and fast fashion. Their significance is now being re-evaluated, however, as a growing number of consumers prioritise quality and longevity over low prices or overt displays of wealth.

Mid-market brands, such as Beams and United Arrows, are defined by a price point between high-end and high street labels, with an average item cost ranging from 15,000 to 50,000 yen (around 95 to 320 US dollars). Their key advantage lies in offering high-quality, durable products that reflect current trends. These items are more accessible than those from luxury houses.

According to a 2024 survey of single-person households by the Ministry of Internal Affairs and Communications, the average monthly expenditure on clothing in Japan was 4,881 yen (around 31 US dollars). This figure suggests that mid-market apparel primarily targets consumers with a degree of financial stability or those who view fashion as a significant personal interest.

Sewing machine for illustration. Credits: Wallace Chuck / Pexels

Japanese mid-market brands also distinguish themselves from international counterparts like Michael Kors and Coach. This distinction lies in their emphasis on texture and refined design over prominent logos and status symbols.

Domestic mid-market brands have established a unique presence by communicating value through meticulous construction and functionality. They successfully balance contemporary trends with timeless appeal.

These brands are frequently found in department stores, where they operate both as standalone labels and as 'select shops' curating external brands. This hybrid model, which combines in-house collections with a carefully chosen edit of other labels, has become a foundational business strategy for mid-market brands in Japan.

Let us examine how emerging labels are diversifying the mid-market fashion segment, building upon the foundation laid by established brands.

Beams

Beams Co., Ltd. was founded in 1976. It began as a 'select shop' importing American West Coast apparel, a rarity in Japan at the time. The company has since evolved into a brand collective with numerous in-house labels, of which 'Beams' is the primary original brand.

Under the theme “Basic & Exciting”, the brand offers a range of menswear ideal for a casual aesthetic. The collection includes several pieces reminiscent of Ivy League university hoodies.

Reflecting its origins as a purveyor of the American lifestyle, the stores offer a distinctive shopping experience. The price point for accessories is typically between 3,000 and 10,000 yen (around 19 to 64 US dollars). Pants and sweatshirts are priced in the 10,000s, while outerwear ranges from 30,000 to 60,000 yen (around 190 to 380 US dollars).

Other labels in its portfolio include Beams Plus, a menswear line with an American vintage theme, and Beams Boy, which adapts menswear designs for a female audience.

United Arrows

United Arrows is a brand under the umbrella of United Arrows Ltd., founded in 1989. Its core concept is to interpret Western fashion from a Japanese perspective. The company targets a highly fashion-conscious demographic, described as “people with a strong interest in fashion who want to enrich their lives through it,” rather than the mass market.

The brand’s theme is to “propose a lifestyle centred on dress codes for adults, with ‘richness and a sense of quality’ as keywords.” It offers a wide range of products with sophisticated designs in muted colour palettes. Prices range from around 20,000 yen (around 128 US dollars) for tops to 30,000 to 70,000 yen (around 190 to 450 US dollars) and above for outerwear.

The company also operates sister brands. These include Beauty & Youth United Arrows, which offers a more casual and playful aesthetic, and United Arrows green label relaxing, which features relaxed silhouettes at a more accessible price point.

Ships

Ships is a menswear brand under Ships Ltd. Its concept is “Stylish Standard,” which expresses traditional elements in a contemporary form by reinterpreting classic styles for the modern era. The company began in 1952 as a retailer of US military surplus. Similar to Beams, it later expanded as an importer of specialty goods while developing its own in-house brand.

The brand maintains a consistent preppy aesthetic, featuring items such as formal chinos, shirts, and tailored jackets. Pants and mid-weight outerwear are priced between 15,000 and 30,000 yen (around 95 to 190 US dollars), while coats range from 40,000 to 70,000 yen (255 to 450 US dollars).

Many of these established mid-market brands were founded to import and adapt Western trends for a Japanese audience, at a time when such styles were uncommon. In contrast, contemporary mid-market labels exhibit a greater diversity in their brand identity.

Conz

Conz, which opened its first store in Harajuku in 2024, proposes a style that deconstructs formalwear with an edgy twist. As CEO Kumazawa told the online publication Fashionsnap, the aim is to “enjoy fashion freely and without pretension.”

The brand is characterised by a fusion of a youthful, subcultural aesthetic with a basic colour palette of white, black, and grey and a focus on material texture. The Conz approach to street style involves creating an effortless look by combining different genres. This is exemplified by pairing baggy pants with collared shirts or classic jackets.

Prices are approximately 15,000 to 20,000 yen (around 95 to 128 US dollars) for shirts, in the 20,000s for trousers, and between 30,000 and 40,000 yen (between 190 and 255 US dollars) for jackets.

Ciota

Ciota is a brand that prioritises Japanese minimalism and domestic production over the reinterpretation of Western culture. It was established in 2019 by Shiota Co., Ltd., a sewing factory and fabric manufacturer based in Okayama Prefecture. The company manages the entire production process in-house, from selecting raw materials to design and sewing. Ciota pursues simple, practical and high-quality apparel that does not rely on trends or logos. This approach strongly reflects a Japanese value system that prioritises longevity over the fast pace of consumption.

The brand uses a natural colour palette of beige and khaki, which complements any wardrobe. Individuality is brought to basic garments through unique button placements, distinctive seam designs and smooth fabric textures.

Sweatshirts are priced in the 30,000s yen range (around 190 US dollars), and pants ranging from 30,000 to 50,000 yen (between 190 and 320 US dollars). Shirts cost between 27,000 and 40,000 yen (around 170 and 255 US dollars).

This article was translated to English using an AI tool.

OR CONTINUE WITH

Beams

Japan

United Arrows