Martin Margiela at auction: A rare window into fashion's avant-garde past

In a landmark auction set for January 27th, Paris will witness the largest single sale of Martin Margiela designs from his early career, offering fashion collectors and museums an unprecedented glimpse into the designer's revolutionary aesthetic.

Kerry Taylor Auctions and Maurice Auction will present over 270 lots from the private collection of sisters Angela and Elena Picozzi, spanning Margiela's pivotal years from 1988 to 1994. The collection, meticulously accumulated under the inspiration of their mother Graziella Picozzi, a prominent Italian fashion industry figure, represents a comprehensive archive of the designer's formative work.

"We always considered these items an important part of fashion history that ought to be protected," the Picozzi sisters explained. "We believe the fashion world should be re-exposed to Martin Margiela's early aesthetics."

The sale includes pieces from seminal collections, notably the Spring-Summer 1990 show that catapulted Margiela onto the global stage. Highlights include outsized vests, 'cigarette'-shouldered suits, painted canvas jackets, and clear vinyl tops that rarely appear on the market.

Rare sketches from 1989

Notably, the auction will feature items from the little-known "!" project, a collaboration between Margiela and Graziella Picozzi before he established his eponymous label. This collection includes rare garments and nearly 70 original hand-drawn sketches from the Autumn-Winter 1989-90 season.

True to Margiela's enigmatic reputation, the exhibition and auction will be held in a disused building at 81 Boulevard Voltaire in Paris's 11th arrondissement, coinciding with the upcoming Haute Couture Fashion Week.

The sale not only offers rare garments but also important ephemera, including original paper patterns and collection sketches, providing fashion historians and collectors a comprehensive view of Margiela's early design philosophy.

Previous auctions by the partnering houses have set significant market benchmarks, with pieces like a Chanel Haute Couture coat selling for 312,000 euros, underscoring the potential value and collector interest in this unique Margiela collection.

The auction represents more than a commercial event; it is a scholarly exploration of a designer who fundamentally reshaped contemporary fashion by challenging traditional design conventions.