30th IAF Convention focuses on challenges of the fashion system

The 30th IAF World Fashion Convention that ended on a high note last week welcomed over 300 delegates from 20 countries in Medellin, Colombia, first time in South America. The discussions at the event focused on ‘Understanding the challenges of the fashion system’.

Day one takes up the denim cause

Each of the seven speakers who spoke on the first day, moderated by Eduardo Braun, gave his or her vision on the future of the industry. While Emiliano Duch, Lead Specialist, Trade & Competitiveness from the World Bank advised governments to modernize their support of the fashion industry, from investing in big industrial parks, which only fosters the lowest paying jobs, to the support of local brands and retail. Claudio Chiaromonte, Executive Vice President and Managing Director for The Walt Disney Company, Latin America showed the audience how big companies have perfected the art of delivering to consumers anytime, anyplace, through any format, by any payment. Horacio Broggi, Director of Desigual Latin showed some secrets of the success of the phenomenal growth of Desigual, from eight to 800 million euros (Rs 618 to Rs 6,180 crores) in 10-years-time.

The highlight of the day was Adriano Goldschmied, also called the godfather of jeans, who took the delegates on a journey of the development of the premium jeans segment by way of his own personal pictures. The pictures showed how the right people came together at the right time and created products that were inspired by their own lifestyles. Goldschmied went from the past to the future where technical innovation will bring jeans to a new level of comfort.

Mariette Hoitink, chairwoman of Amsterdam based House of Denim continued with the jeans case. She showed the delegates how city, big brands, local entrepreneurs and foreign investors work together to create a denim hub in Amsterdam. But it was clear that this example, combining denim specific schooling, research and networking can be replicated in other places as well. Fernando Pimentel, the Director of the Brazilian Apparel Association Abit stressed the importance of intra Latin American trade.

And finally, Ed Gribbin President of Alvanon plead for a radical change in the industry which is facing below 40 per cent full price sell through on the retail end. Investments in 3D digital sampling, PLM are necessary as is a shift in focus to a more engineering oriented design of clothing, focusing not only on how it looks, but also on how it works.

Rahul Mehta succeeds as IAF President

In the general assembly of the International Apparel Federation, held during the World Fashion Convention, Rahul Mehta was elected as new IAF President for the coming two years. He succeeds Harry van Dalfsen who has been IAF’s leader in the past four years. Rahul Mehta is President of the Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI) representing this association in IAF since many years.

The general assembly also agreed with other changes in IAF’s management. Claudio Marenzi, President of the Italian Apparel and Textile Association Systema Moda Italia (SMI) was elected Vice-President of IAF. IAF’s Secretary-General Han Bekke will step down end of this year after holding this position since eight years. He was elected as new member of the IAF board in which he will take the position as treasurer from Hasan Arat who stepped down as member of the board. New Secretary-General of IAF from January 1, 2015 onwards will be Matthijs Crietee, who is currently Deputy Secretary-General.

In his opening speech, outgoing IAF President Harry van Dalfsen showed his optimism about the global fashion industry. Although it faces great challenges, he said, it is full of great examples of companies finding new ways to entice customers, add new value, expand markets and improve its hugely complex supply chain.

He sees as a positive sign of the times ahead and the growing power of local brands in emerging markets. According to him, strong local brands inspire international brands to adapt their global style to local circumstances and international brands force local brands to learn more quickly to compete. On the supply side, he stated that he believes, positive changes in the apparel industry will be driven more in the coming decade by investments in the manufacturing part of the industry. He opined that a new, more balanced relation between brands, retailers and manufacturers is needed to make joint decisions on investments, improving productivity, working conditions and reducing costs and environmental footprint.