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Horses on the loose: Wild street style at Pitti Uomo 105

By Ole Spötter


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Fairs |In Pictures

There's always something going on with the street styles at Pitti Uomo (FW24) Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

While the temperatures across Europe climb into the sub-zero range, the men at the Pitti Uomo fashion fair in Florence have not been deterred from presenting their latest looks. While some focused primarily on practical and warm styles, others added some colour to the AW24 season opener.

Cosy ears

As we are known to lose most of our body heat through our heads, many Pitti visitors opted for a stylish hat or other warm headwear. Last summer's cowboy hat has been replaced this season by a cap with ear flaps.

Caps with earflaps are on trend Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Like its predecessor, this headwear was the it-piece of the respective look. Depending on the style of the cap, which ranged from hunting to streetwear, a matching outfit was created around it. The colour palette of the looks was mostly understated and dark, regardless of the style.


In keeping with the season and based on the Gorpcore trend, some visitors also helped themselves to weatherproof outerwear pieces that are both stylish and practical.

Practical and stylish looks at Pitti Uomo Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight (left and right), Pitti Immagine (Left and right in the centre)

In addition to classic rain two-piece suits, there were also some pieces on show that took the theme to the next level and went beyond a practical jacket and trousers with lots of pockets. A bridge was built to classic menswear with straight-lined coats and fabrics such as tartan, without losing the functional aspect.

Army style

The many army jackets and camouflage one-piece suits that were on show during the trade fair were certainly practical and, above all, warm. As is typical for the sector, these favoured brown and green tones. Occasionally, however, some colour could also be seen, such as a gentleman in a golden-yellow aviator jacket, which he combined with wide blue parachute trousers and matching boots. But here, too, the army accessory was a must: A weekender with a 'US Air Force' print.

Army style at Pitti Uomo FW24 Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Even though military uniforms and looks inspired by them are quite common in menswear, wearing such items in a casual manner as this seems a bit strange at a time when several wars are still being fought.

Throw over

This trend, which has played a role in womenswear for some time, is much more relaxed. Throws in various styles and patterns could be seen in the form of capes and ponchos. Although, it must be noted that the cultural garment of indigenous peoples is likely less of a trend.

Ponchos and throws at Pitti Uomo FW24 Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

In addition to these pieces, there were also some simpler, single-colour capes exhibited. Meanwhile, the outdoor theme was also represented in a tartan iteration from the British brand Barbour, which was combined with a bright hat and colour-coordinated suit.

Colourful coats

In addition to the mostly simple colour palettes, some visitors also opted for colourful statement coats. These ranged from monochrome pieces in bright ruby red to coats with intricate patterned details to looks with a mix of colours in a wilder print.

Colourful coats Credits: Pitti Immagine (links und Mitte), ©Launchmetrics/spotlight (rechts)

The wearers usually combined the colourful coats with simple pieces. Black suit trousers peeked out at the bottom of one coat, which were then combined with simple trainers and smart shoes. Cool sunglasses, a simple handbag and a single-coloured scarf round off the chic yet cosy look.

Hip Hop hat

Things were a little less sleek on the head, however. After the baseball cap with a curved peak became an integral part of streetwear trends in recent seasons, the brim of the cap now appears to be straighter again. Meanwhile, the front crown panel has returned to its formerly favoured height. Another major difference is that not all of these models, which had their heyday in hip hop in the early 2000s, have an adjustable fastening. As with other hats, the right size has to be selected for some of them.

Pitti Uomo: Caps with a flat peak are back Credits: Pitti Immagine (far left), Rest: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

At Pitti Uomo 105, several visitors were seen wearing these caps, which are offered by brands such as Mitchell & Ness and New Era. As with baseball caps, they are usually adorned with various franchise brands associated with US sports teams.

Due to pieces being available in a wide range of colours and patterns, they can also be incorporated into individual styles. The look can reflect more 'old school hip hop'; with a sports jacket and baggy trousers, but a slightly more elegant combination is also conceivable as a contrast.

Pitti Uomo
Trade show