Pitti Uomo banks on tailwinds

Pitti Uomo has officially kicked off the SS26 season, though the outlook is far from straightforward.

The season’s start unfolded against a difficult geopolitical backdrop, according to Antonio De Matteis, president of Pitti Immagine (PI), the trade show organiser. Still, the situation was not entirely bleak, with menswear remaining “healthy.” De Matteis compared current figures to those of 2019.

Compared to the pre-coronavirus year, Italian menswear turnover increased from 10.14 billion euros to 11.42 billion euros in 2024, De Matteis reported. Compared to 2023, however, this represented a decrease of 3.6 percent. Production values grew from 4.68 billion euros to 4.73 billion euros in 2024. Exports recorded an increase from seven billion euros to 8.84 billion euros during this period. The PI president also emphasised that one had to work hard to stay at the top.

International field of riders

To meet this challenge, the Florentine menswear trade show pressed the accelerator this season, attracting trade visitors with four major fashion shows. The Japanese streetwear label Children of Discordance opened the event on Tuesday, blending memories of growing up with Yokohama Old School Hip Hop, DIY influences, and tailoring.

In the coming days, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake, Niccolò Pasqualetti, and Post Archive Faction completed the international showcase. Around 740 brands participated at the trade show, with 46 percent coming from abroad.

The focus of the 108th edition is ‘Pitti Bikes’. For this, the organiser integrated its ‘Becycle’ format, which is dedicated to cycling and was launched last year at the start of the Tour de France in Florence. At Pitti Uomo, the bicycles and matching looks are given their own area in the outerwear segment, ‘I Go Out’.

Mixed mood at the start

Despite the energetic efforts, changeable weather – especially in the mornings – drove many visitors indoors, leading to a subdued attendance in outdoor areas. However, with the sun returning in the afternoon, spirits lifted, ensuring a positive start to the trade show.

German clothing supplier Bugatti expressed satisfaction with the numerous guests visiting its stand, according to a spokesperson. Sustainability-focused brand Keeling transformed its stand into a green jungle, attracting enough visitors to satisfy operations manager Claudio Galluzzo.

MWM brand manager Felipe Bolaños De Isla, meanwhile, noted the absence of international guests at the stand of the Spanish streetwear label. While well established in Italy, the brand aims to expand into other European markets such as Germany, France, and the UK, where it has yet to gain traction. Despite this, he remained optimistic about the turnout and hoped for a stronger second day, traditionally the busiest.

US brand Robert Talbott also seeks to break into new markets like Germany and Switzerland. Creative director Sebastian Dollinger reported no shortage of contact with potential new customers. Following its Pitti debut in June 2024, the menswear specialist has successfully attracted major buyers to its stand automatically.

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