A look into Erdem’s expansion into menswear

Founded back in 2005, the independent fashion house Erdem has worked 15 years on building a name for itself in womenswear. The London-based designer, Erdem Moralioglu, is now carving out a new path in the line of menswear, releasing his first collection for men for the spring/summer 2022 season.

Moraliogu has previously traversed the menswear market before, in his 2017 collaboration with global retailer H&M. This new collection is his first fully fledged foray into the sector, offering 36 laid back looks.

Inspired by the wardrobe of English film director, author and gay rights activist Derek Jarman, the collection draws influence from his both practical and relaxed clothing style, with bursts of both artistic and utilitarian design. Floral prints and cotton jacquard reference iconic imagery of Jarman, who was also an avid gardener, at his Prospect Cottage in Kent, in which he sported boiler suits, worn cords and knitted tank tops.

Further evidence of the late filmmaker within the line is displayed in wide-legged shorts and flat-fronted trousers, both hinting at a boyish essence similar to that of Jarman’s art student days.

Like the house’s womenswear collections, the designs prioritise both casual comfort and high craftsmanship. Striped mohair jumpers and cardigans offer a slouchy, off-duty look, while boatneck cable knit jumpers capture a more seaside vibe.

Collarless shirts, velvety corduroy trousers and olive coloured chinos look to evoke a sense of nostalgia, further emphasised in denim bleached in florals and 18th-century etchings.

Moralioglu explained in a release on the collection: “The idea of menswear had been rolling around my head for some time. I’ve always been interested in the dialogue and interaction between masculine and feminine self-expression. As our womenswear collections became more extensive over time, I adored how the men in my team began to wear items from the collections in a variety of ways.”

The fashion house gave hints at its menswear crossover during its SS22 womenswear show, at which a brief selection of feminine-like men’s pieces were featured among the floor-length gowns and botanical prints. This new menswear addition looks to test the menswear sector, with a plan to build the line over the coming seasons to match that of the womenswear wardrobe.

He added: “The boundaries between men’s and women’s fashion are increasingly fluid and exciting. I imagined that my moody female protagonist had a younger brother who’d wear her clothes in his own personal way.”