Addictions to second-hand fashion platforms: A study reveals the risks

While addictions to social networks are now the subject of numerous studies, a dependence on another type of online platform is beginning to arouse the interest of the scientific world: addiction to second-hand fashion platforms.

In Bordeaux, France, doctoral candidate Marie Boudi is highlighting the development of problematic behaviour linked to second-hand clothing, footwear and accessories platforms and apps such as Vinted, Depop and Vestiaire Collective. Basing her thesis on the theory of Canadian researcher Robert Vallerand, the academic sheds light on a major risk for the user: the shift from a "harmonious passion" for fashion to an "obsessive passion", where the user loses total control of their activity on the platform.

When love for fashion turns to obsession

According to a recent study by the Institut Français de la Mode (IFM), it is now second-hand company Vinted that generates the largest volume of fashion sales in France. It is thus ahead of Amazon and Kiabi, two heavyweights in the sector.

Several factors explain this success. Users of apps like Vinted visit this type of platform for economic reasons, ecological reasons or for the love of fashion and vintage finds. It is on this last point, that of a passion for fashion, that Boudi explains she has focused her research. Throughout her interviews with various users, the researcher observed what she calls the "overflow" of this passion, initially described as "harmonious", according to Vallerand's theory. The use of vintage or second-hand fashion apps then turns into an obsession, also known as "obsessive passion".

"I was constantly at the collection points [...] I thought to myself, I might be overdoing it a bit."

Charlotte, user of second-hand platforms, interviewed by Marie Boudi.

What initially stems from an attraction to aesthetics, trends or shopping, transforms into a compulsive need to buy. "I was constantly at the collection points [...] I thought to myself, I might be overdoing it a bit," confided Charlotte, a user of second-hand platforms, interviewed by Boudi. Another interviewee confessed to her that she felt "dependent on this platform".

Comments from an article published by Marie Claire magazine in 2024 corroborate the idea of a toxic relationship with second-hand platforms. "I discovered Vinted five years ago. At first, I used it healthily, but after a while, it became an addiction," Lola-Marie, a student in Brussels, told the magazine.

Image of the second-hand company Vinted. Credits: Vinted

The cause: the immense, almost infinite, choice of items, but also the low prices. According to Boudi, the user is led to think: "I have more purchasing power on these second-hand platforms, I can treat myself a little more. The prices are attractive and there is a lot of choice."

"The satisfaction and excitement encountered during the purchase journey are feelings that these consumers want to experience every time and that push them to over-consume on these platforms," explains the doctoral candidate in an interview with FashionUnited. While at first glance these feelings seem rather positive, they ultimately lead to a cycle of repeated purchases and more negative feelings, such as guilt and regret.

Guilt-free purchasing

Second-hand fashion now enjoys a positive image in terms of ecological impact. As the items purchased have already been worn, the consequences on the environment are far less than buying new items, the production of which remains, in most cases, more polluting (abundant water consumption, use of chemicals, greenhouse gas emissions). In addition, second-hand fashion gives a second life to millions of garments and thus prevents them from ending up prematurely in the bin or in open-air landfills, which have been widely criticised in the media in recent years.

The rise of environmental awareness has contributed to the boom in second-hand fashion, with consumers convinced that they are making a reasoned purchase on specialised platforms. This feeling is fuelled by the discourse of the marketing teams of the companies in question, which have heavily capitalised on this ecological argument.

This discourse notably involves the annual reports of these companies on their environmental impact. Consulted by FashionUnited, these documents highlight the ecological advantages of buying a second-hand item compared to buying a new one. "The planet is better off when you opt for second-hand luxury," declared the French platform Vestiaire Collective in its 2024 Circularity Report.

If we compare the carbon footprint of these companies with that of large fashion groups or fast fashion brands, the figures for the former are indeed lower. For example, Vestiaire Collective's is 18,992 tonnes of CO2 (2023), Depop's is 20,059 tonnes of CO2 (2022), while H&M Group's is 8.5 million tonnes of CO2 (all brands combined), Shein's is 9.17 million tonnes of CO2 (2022) and a brand like Kiabi's reaches 2.7 million tonnes of CO2 (2022).

But while the explanation of the calculations comparing the environmental impact of buying a new product with that of a second-hand product appears clearly in the reports dedicated to ecological impact, the latter do not detail the real impact of an item on their platform (notably its transport). Knowing that it is lower than buying a new item is enough to present it as a reasonable purchase.

As for the potential problem of overconsumption, Vinted has taken the lead. In a report published in 2024, it writes: "The majority (65 percent) of buyers on Vinted say they prefer to buy fewer, but more expensive and durable fashion items, rather than large quantities of cheap items. Only a small group of members (18 percent) say they bought something on Vinted because they were browsing the site and liked the item. In France, this group is even smaller, with 12 percent of 'spontaneous buyers'."

"Do your research with intention. Try not to give in to spontaneous purchases."

Vinted (Our Impact Report 2023)

However, a study published in 2023 by Ademe (Agence de la transition écologique) contradicts this data. It indicates that the vast majority (86 percent) of consumers of second-hand items (including fashion items) believe that this allows them to buy more items for less money.

In view of several notes published in Vinted's 2023 ecological impact report, the company seems aware of the possible risk of overconsumption on its platform. Here are the comments noted by FashionUnited:

"Do your research with intention. Try not to give in to spontaneous purchases"; "Quality over quantity. Whether it's second-hand or new items, it's better to invest in fewer, but quality items"; "Set a budget so you can plan your spending based on what you really need."

Constant renewal, infinite offer

Every day, every second, the offer of second-hand platforms is expanding. New shoes, dresses or bags are constantly being put online by user-sellers and continuously feed the catalogue. In 2022, Vinted declared that more than 800 million items had been put up for sale on its platform during the year.

This constant renewal - as well as notifications - encourages consumers to consult these apps at any time of day and thus multiplies the opportunities to buy. Especially since, as Boudi explains to FashionUnited, "knowing that the item can be resold gives consumers a sense of security that encourages them to buy more freely and without guilt."

But overconsumption is not the only problem. Falling into an "obsessive passion" and losing control of one's activity on the platform has other harmful consequences.

Addiction

"I open Vinted like I open a social network" is one of the phrases noted during the interviews conducted by the doctoral candidate. "This means that when I'm on a bus, waiting for the underground, or in transport, if I don't know what to do, I open Vinted and scroll to see what's on the app," deduces the academic, before adding: "One person told me it was really an easy reflex."

The terms "addict", "dependence", "reflex", "excitement" and "satisfaction" were used several times by the people Boudi interviewed. These are all terms that are also linked to the excessive use of social networks and whose dangers to psychological health have been demonstrated.

Today, we know that networks such as Instagram, TikTok, YouTube or X (formerly Twitter) have a significant influence on the psychological well-being of the French, as revealed by recent IFOP studies. In 2025, more than a third of participants (36 percent) considered that the use of social networks intensified their feeling of loneliness.

New neuroimaging analyses reveal that intensive use of networks, particularly among adolescents, is linked to functional and structural changes in brain regions and that these neural patterns resemble those observed in cases of addiction, attention deficit/hyperactivity disorder and mood disorders (Dopamine-scrolling: a modern public health challenge requiring urgent attention, by BT Sharpe and RA Spooner).

FOMO (Fear of Missing Out) is one of the psychological mechanisms that push users to visit social networks at a high rate. This fear, which is defined as the feeling of missing something, can also be experienced with second-hand platforms where people passionate about fashion, like others, sometimes fear missing out on a rare gem such as a Courrèges outfit at a ridiculously low price or a new Miu Miu top sold much cheaper than in shops.

A legislative framework to protect against addictions to online platforms?

The risks of economic, physical and mental harm linked to the addictive use of digital products and services are now recognised by the authorities. In France, as in Europe, regulations exist regarding the problem of user dependence on online content. Unfortunately, gaps remain.

This is why the European Commission is currently working on future legislation concerning digital fairness (Digital Fairness Act - DFA), intended to strengthen consumer protection in the digital environment. The text should notably address the addictive design of online platforms, but also the design of misleading or manipulative interfaces, or unfair personalisation practices.

In July 2025, the Commission launched an open consultation to gather evidence. It will end in October 2025. The European administration then plans to publish a summary report in the second quarter of 2026, taking into account the feedback and data collected.

If new regulations are introduced, second-hand platforms like Vinted may have to review several parameters of their operation.

This article was translated to English using an AI tool.

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