After hype: H&M's former CEO on next phase of sustainability in fashion industry

Fashion

Helena Helmersson, ex-ceo H&M and chair at material company Circulose on stage at World Retail Congress Credits: World Retail Congress

London - One of the best speakers at the World Retail Congress 2025 was Helena Helmersson. The former CEO led the Swedish H&M Group for several years and recently became the chair at material innovation company Circulose. In London, during a compelling keynote speech, she urged all professionals present to refocus on sustainability.

Helmersson acknowledged that the focus on sustainability has waned. There were valid reasons: the pandemic, inflation, various wars, artificial intelligence (AI), etc. All diverted attention from sustainability, as it was no longer the biggest challenge facing companies.

However, there is no need to despair. Helmersson used the Gartner Hype Cycle, a framework and graphical representation, to illustrate that trends follow a specific path: from hype to unmet expectations, disillusionment, before stabilising and achieving long-term implementation. According to Helmersson, the industry is currently in the ‘valley of disillusionment’ regarding sustainability. This is a phase where progress is slow, consumers see broken promises from companies, and scepticism increases.

After this comes the opportunity for the ‘slope of enlightenment’, but industry effort is needed. Leading companies and leaders must bridge the gap between sustainability and profitability. “You must build a system as a leader so that people in your company can be successful.” For example, removing the pressure on profitability during the purchasing process. “Let a central budget contribute to more sustainable materials that are more expensive so that buyers do not have to choose between profit and sustainability to balance their budget.”

To win over the disillusioned consumer, sustainability must move beyond simply ‘joining the movement’ and focus on meeting the consumer’s practical needs. She gave the example of second-hand platform Sellpy, in which the H&M Group has invested. “It helps consumers to clear out their wardrobes. It’s easy, good for their wallets, and it helps them find their personal style.”

During her keynote, Helmersson was also honest about how difficult it is to achieve sustainability. As the former CEO of the H&M Group, she knows this all too well. “It is not enough to just make the plan and communicate it.” She explained that companies must allow room for achieving goals internally, and that long-term partnerships must be formed externally. “This problem cannot be solved by ticking boxes. There must be coordination and investment with a long-term perspective.”

This article was translated to English using an AI tool.

Circulose

Helena Helmersson

Sustainability

World Retail Congress