Altuzarra returns to NYFW with renewed sense of romantic commercialism

Altuzarra returned to the New York Fashion Week runway this season after what has been somewhat of a hectic year for its namesake founder. At the end of 2024, Joseph Altuzarra took up the role of chief executive officer for his brand, creating a dual position for the creative director as he looks towards a future rooted in global expansion.

The news came just shortly after the announcement that US investment firm P180 had joined the luxury label as a strategic partner, a move intended to accelerate Altuzarra’s e-commerce profitability and strengthen its digital strategy. Not only that, but a new rental platform for archival looks had opened up fresh monetisation sources for Altuzarra, allowing it to fund its rapidly growing direct-to-consumer business, the efforts of which fell on its runway show.

Held in the brand’s own Woolworth Building headquarters, the runway intertwined commercial design aspects with more elevated pieces, yet remained close to the spirit of wearability. While still touching on his roots of American sportswear, Altuzarra infused his autumn/winter 2025 collection with subtle glamour, incorporating vintage-inspired cocktail dresses, heavily embellished skirts and crystallised headpieces, many paired with more casual items, like a layered cape coat or pea jacket.

Speaking to Harper’s Bazaar ahead of the show, Altuzarra explained that the new collection was “an evolution” of last autumn’s line, when the brand “started thinking about collections that feel less merchandised”. “It’s not about packing everything into one garment, but the whole of each look,” he added.

As such, more pared back staples, like a Faire Isle turtleneck, leather maxi skirts and cropped pants offered customers ready-to-throw-on, easy-to-pair basics, with each also contributing to an expansive array of materials and silhouettes. While such staples defined a large portion of the collection, at the heart was an underlying story of romanticism, expressed in floaty maxis dresses, flared collars and highly intricate prints. “This season, the focus shifts from narrative to a singular, compelling character—a woman who wears her history as armour, unafraid to show her scars,” a press release elaborated.