Between upheaval and familiarity: 10 Key trends for SS26
The word “historic” was so prevalent this season that it almost felt like an unofficial headline hovering over the spring/summer 2026 collections. This was certainly justified, as a major reshuffle took place in the highest echelons of the fashion world. A total of 14 designers presented their debut collections as newly appointed creative directors for some of the industry’s most influential houses. This tectonic shift in the creative landscape inevitably evoked a sense of a new beginning.
The promise of a new fashion era was palpable everywhere. However, after four weeks, a familiar picture emerged. The trends that gradually crystallised from the catwalks moved on familiar ground, despite all the stylistic realignments.
Ten key trends for SS26 at a glance.
Featherlight
If there is one feathered dress from this Fashion Week that will remain in the collective fashion memory, it is the one from Mathieu Blazy’s debut collection for Chanel. However, the designer was neither the first nor the last to use the material.
The season was characterised by an abundance of texture and movement. Feathers played a significant role in this. Whether as part of waistcoats and headpieces at Ann Demeulemeester or as embellishments on skirts as chosen by Pierpaolo Piccioli for Balenciaga, the feathery material proved to be exceptionally versatile.
Ruffle play
After years of clean lines, fashion is rediscovering its softer side this season. Ruffles appeared everywhere, not as a nostalgic gesture, but as a deliberate break from the austerity of recent years. At Marques’ Almeida, they were irregular and spontaneous. At Alberta Ferretti, they were more delicate, arranged in soft, flowing layers that played with light and movement. Chloé translated the ruffle into a modern volume, balancing sportiness with romance.
Sea of flowers
Floral patterns for spring have never been, and never will be, groundbreaking. Yet, not a season goes by without the floral motif once again gracing the catwalks. Rabanne kicked off the floral parade with a look reminiscent of an 80s revival, appearing as if it had stepped out of a colourful music video. Valentino, in turn, transported us to the 70s with a flowing metallic dress in shimmering green tones. Its floral pattern looked like a painting dipped in lamé.
In comparison, Loewe opted for a more restrained approach. The close-fitting minidress, adorned with small, finely arranged blossoms, looked as if the flowers had been painted with a delicate brushstroke.
Shades of yellow
After several seasons dominated by neutral tones and earthy hues, colour has made a powerful return to the catwalks. Yellow, in particular, proved to be the colour of the moment, present in a wide variety of shades.
At Miu Miu, it appeared as a vibrant complement to sporty shapes and graphic patterns, giving the colour an almost utilitarian severity. Alexander McQueen focused on the dramatic effect of yellow in voluminous, floor-length gowns that dissolved the fabric into movement and light. Balenciaga translated the hue into sculptural forms and structured surfaces. Here, yellow embodied less lightness and more of an almost architectural precision.
Fringe festival
At first glance, the fringe trend is not so different from the aforementioned feather look. However, texture played a central role in the overall aesthetic of the spring/summer 2026 season, and fringes in all their variations were ubiquitous.
At Chanel, the technique was showcased with tactile opulence in a golden fringed ensemble, while Alexander McQueen gave the theme a rawer edge. Metallic threads hung loosely from a short top paired with jeans. Loewe presented arguably the most architectural version. Electric cobalt blue fringes emerged from a sculptural skirt, paired with a voluminous jacket that anchored the look in modern objectivity.
A touch of Marie Antoinette
Last spring, numerous brands began to reinterpret the pannier-style gowns of the 18th century, featuring exaggerated hip volumes reminiscent of courtly silhouettes. This season, the picture was less uniform. However, opulent volume, of the kind that would have delighted Marie Antoinette, was widespread, especially in dresses.
There, the volume lent a lively dynamism to skirts and dresses. They came down the catwalk puffed up, folded and with a buoyant movement. This was seen at Jonathan Anderson’s debut for Dior’s womenswear collection and also at Givenchy under the creative direction of Sarah Burton. Louis Vuitton presented a transparent combination of trousers so wide they could almost pass for a skirt. This was paired with a bodice and a cape with such voluminous shoulders that they rivalled the skirts in drama. Fittingly, the show took place in the Musée du Louvre, specifically in the rooms that once served as the summer residence of Anne of Austria, Queen of France.
A field of lilac
On the colour wheel, yellow and purple are opposites; for the spring/summer 2026 season, they are competitors. The violet hue appeared in various gradations, from cool lilac to rich purple. Chloé chose a soft lilac tone for a dress that fell in soft folds, gathering around the hips and hem. Balenciaga showed a slimmer silhouette in a strong purple, enlivened by draping at the hem. Moschino, in turn, combined the colour with playful details, such as oversized flounces and an accentuated hip volume reminiscent of couture presentations.
Silhouette play
Designers are playing with silhouettes, and the jacket, in particular, has been shortened by a few centimetres. On the catwalks, it appeared in a cropped version that reveals the lower body while modernising the classic shape. Whether in the minimal execution at Chanel; the clear geometry at Max Mara; or the avant-garde creation at Alexander McQueen, the cropped version brings a breath of fresh air to the classic suit look.
Dark lingerie looks
Similar to the 18th-century influence, lingerie-inspired fashion is now a familiar sight on the catwalk. This season, however, it appears significantly darker and even more sensual.
At Tom Ford, the slip dress became a deconstructed work of art. Transparent lace inserts met graphic lines and strong contrasts. Patou presented a playful take on the lingerie theme, where the delicate bralette and floral miniskirt-tights combination was almost reminiscent of a classic pin-up silhouette. Jean Paul Gaultier took the theme to the extreme. A low-cut bodysuit with a sheer skirt was worn so low it was almost reminiscent of stockings.
Orange
It is not just yellow and purple sending bright signals for SS26; orange is too. The colour, which has long oscillated between a warning signal and retro charm, was impossible to miss this season.
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