Call for transparency, archival references and co-ed formulas at Milan Fashion Week

Milan Men’s Fashion Week, showcasing autumn/winter 2026–27 collections, concluded today with digital presentations as the city shifts focus to women’s fashion week, scheduled for February 24–March 2. The season delivered solid, well-executed collections, though few breakthroughs. Designers largely turned to brand archives, refining established codes rather than introducing radical change.

Buyer attendance was steady but subdued, reflecting ongoing market caution. At Pitti Uomo, Italian buyers fell by 800 compared with January 2025, dropping to 7,500, while international attendance remained stable at around 5,000. The figures underscore continued pressure from the global consumer slowdown.

The coexistence of co-ed shows and men’s-only presentations highlighted a fashion system still searching for balance. Meanwhile, recent labour exploitation cases involving Italian luxury brands have pushed companies to reassess messaging and communication strategies.

Italian fashion gains international recognition

International recognition provided a counterpoint. Renzo Rosso, founder of the OTB Group, was awarded France’s Légion d'honneur by French ambassador to Italy Martin Briens.

“It is a great honour to receive the Légion d'honneur… This recognition is not only a milestone but also an incentive to further strengthen our presence in France… and to continue with determination on our path to sustainability,” Rosso said.

In the UK, Brunello Cucinelli received the Outstanding Achievement Award at the British Fashion Awards 2025 for his “outstanding contribution to the fashion world” and his role in redefining luxury through responsible business practices.

Milan’s visibility has also increased ahead of the Milan Cortina 2026 Olympic and Paralympic Games, beginning in February.

Market snapshot

The men’s fashion week, held January 16–20, featured 84 events, including 19 runway shows, seven digital shows, and 39 presentations.

According to Camera della Moda, Italy’s core fashion sectors—textiles, apparel, leather goods, and footwear—returned to growth in Q3 2025 after eight consecutive quarters of decline. However, related sectors such as jewellery, eyewear, and beauty remained negative. Overall industry turnover fell 3 percent in the first nine months of 2025 versus the same period in 2024.

Exports declined 4.4 percent in the first eight months of 2025, with non-EU markets down 9 percent. Imports rose, led by China (+11.8 percent). The trade balance remained positive at 26.7 billion euros, though down 4.3 billion euros year on year.

Confindustria Moda estimates Italian menswear turnover will fall 2.1 percent in 2025 to 11.2 billion euros (13.14 billion dollars). “The year 2025 began in a context still marked by high uncertainty… with no concrete signs of recovery,” the association said, citing geopolitical tensions and protectionist measures.

Collections: heritage over disruption

At Giorgio Armani, Leo Dell’Orco’s AW26–27 debut explored fluid silhouettes, soft volumes, and velvety textures. Titled Cangiante, the collection focused on subtle colour shifts—olive, amethyst, and lapis—within a restrained palette. “The metaphor is well suited to the Giorgio Armani style of today,” the brand said, emphasising continuity with renewed nuance.

Brunello Cucinelli balanced elegance and utility, reworking classic tailoring with lighter construction and functional details. Outerwear stood out for its technical fabrics and refined finishes.

Heritage was central at Zegna, where artistic director Alessandro Sartori drew on garments from the Zegna family wardrobe. “Clothes are the pages of a diary we write throughout our lives,” Sartori said, framing the collection as a generational handover. Long silhouettes, relaxed proportions, and playful reinterpretations of double-breasted tailoring defined the offering.

A few weeks ahead of the Milan Cortina 2026 Olympic and Paralympic Games, EA7 Emporio Armani—partner of the Milano Cortina 2026 Foundation and official outfitter of the Italian team—hosted an event at its Milan store, unveiling a new video campaign dedicated to Italy’s Olympic and Paralympic athletes.

Practicality was also central to Brunello Cucinelli’s collection, where the brand’s signature codes of masculine elegance were reinterpreted through a balance of function and refinement. Lightly constructed jackets with softened lines embodied measured elegance, while ties acted as deliberate accents against garment-dyed trousers with cargo or utility pockets.

Prada continued its dialogue between past and future. Slim, elongated coats, layered capes, and precise tailoring referenced tradition while questioning convention. “There is a belonging to the past that interests us, even as we search for novelty,” said Miuccia Prada.

Kiton reinforced its positioning around transparency and craftsmanship, centring the collection on exclusive fabrics developed at its Biella mill and a disciplined approach to volume and detail.

Prada, too, confronted the future through the lens of tradition. Slim, elongated coats, flattened hats, extended cuffs, and layered capes articulated a precise silhouette grounded in history.

“We know so little that we cannot predict the future, so in clothes we need clarity, precision. There is a belonging to the past that interests us, even as we search for novelty,” explained Miuccia Prada.

Kiton’s AW26–27 collection reaffirmed the values of transparency and craftsmanship underpinning Made in Italy, focusing on exclusive fabrics developed in its Biella wool mill and on refined proportions and detail.

Retail, anniversaries and alpine themes

Beyond the runway, Milan saw store openings and brand milestones. Retori debuted its first global flagship on Via della Spiga, conceived as a cultural salon. “We created it to offer an experience of wonder,” said founder Salma Rachid.

Blauer marked 25 years of its brand licence, tracing its evolution from US technical uniforms to global fashion label. “I wanted to make a technical clothing brand appealing to fashion customers,” said Enzo Fusco, president and CEO of Fgf Industry.

Lessico Familiare closed on a contrasting note, presenting its New Age collection—an introspective summary of the brand’s evolving aesthetic—at the new Istituto Marangoni headquarters.

Winter sports provided a unifying theme. K-Way presented its technical ski collection ahead of the Olympics, while Dsquared2 staged a hockey-inspired show referencing the Canadian roots of founders Dean and Dan Caten.