Calvin Klein returns to New York Fashion Week under new creative vision

After a hiatus of nearly seven years, Calvin Klein is making a highly anticipated return to New York Fashion Week. The PHV-operated brand will show its first runway collection under new creative director Veronica Leoni. The last collection it showed was under Raf Simons in September 2018.

“This debut represents a new era of innovation and creativity for Calvin Klein,” said Eva Serrano, Global Brand President of Calvin Klein, in a statement reported by WWD. “Veronica’s vision honors the brand’s iconic heritage while embracing a bold new future. We are thrilled to share this with the world.”

A New Creative Chapter

Leoni’s appointment was announced last May, signaling a strategic pivot for the brand. The Italian designer, a 2023 LVMH Prize finalist and founder of the label Quira, has already built a reputation for her refined, contemporary aesthetic. Her remit at Calvin Klein includes the ready-to-wear collections, as well as underwear and accessories for both men and women.

The line was shuttered shortly thereafter, following the abrupt departure of Mr. Simons along with his team, which notably included Pieter Mulier and Matthieu Blazy.

Leoni’s debut marks not only her personal breakthrough but also Calvin Klein’s re-entry into the competitive world of high fashion. Once known for defining American style with its minimalist yet provocative designs, PVH transformed the brand into a mid-market colossus best known for its underwear, but shies away from luxury strategies in its brand portfolio.

Industry leaders welcome the brand’s comeback

Steven Kolb, CEO of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), underscored the significance of the brand’s return to NYFW. “Calvin Klein Collection’s comeback at NYFW is a pivotal moment for both New York and the global fashion industry,” Kolb stated. “The brand has played a foundational role in shaping American fashion, pushing boundaries with its bold interpretations of minimalism. We are excited to welcome them back to the official schedule and to celebrate the latest chapter in the brand’s storied history.”

Broader ambitions

Beyond the runway, Calvin Klein has also announced plans to open a new flagship store in SoHo, New York, by the end of 2025. The 680-square-meter retail space on Broadway is expected to serve as a physical manifestation of the brand’s reinvigorated vision, blending heritage with modernity to captivate a new generation of consumers.