Chanel by Matthieu Blazy: elegance with a playful twist

This Monday evening at the Grand Palais, the house of Chanel started a new chapter in its history, presenting the first collection conceived under the creative direction of Matthieu Blazy. The result is a Chanel woman firmly grounded in the present, embodying a rediscovered modernity.

Chanel silhouettes by Matthieu Blazy

Against a nocturnal backdrop illuminated by the planets of our solar system, the first Chanel silhouette by Matthieu Blazy stood out for its apparent simplicity. It featured a grey ensemble pairing suit trousers with a short jacket with rolled-up sleeves. The new director opted for a gentle transition, introducing the collection with a classic office wear look, complete with his signature whimsical touch: a pair of earrings with shaggy flower petals.

This was followed by several split skirts in neutral tones and consistently fluid ensembles. Extravagance was found in the details, such as thick choker necklaces and vibrantly hued earrings, becoming increasingly prominent as the collection progressed. A red feathered hairstyle lent a rebellious air to a long, shimmering nude dress, while white feathers on the hem of a dark coat softened its severity.

The opening classical music gave way to an electro beat, matching the collection's modern twist. While retaining Chanel's signature classicism, the long-sleeved top and skirt ensembles were updated with fluid knits, floral friezes, and moving volume. The waistline gradually dropped, recalling the silhouettes of the 1920s, a key decade for the house.

Several cleverly contemporary ensembles were noted, combining a smart skirt with an oversized, minimalist blouse. Modernity was also evident in the use of unexpected materials, a hallmark of Matthieu Blazy's style developed during his time at Bottega Veneta, his previous employer.

This spring/summer collection also featured several elements similar to those the artistic director had introduced in the womenswear collections for the Italian label. These included close-fitting dresses with flared hems and low-waisted dresses with fringed hems.

Tweed suit gains desirability

In the hands of Matthieu Blazy, Chanel's iconic tweed suit sheds its classic severity for a newfound lightness. The fabric is open-worked and enlivened by vibrant hues, embossed effects, and energetic geometric patterns. With its use of transparency and a modernised cut featuring a wide, low-slung belt, this Chanel wardrobe staple demonstrates Matthieu Blazy's effort to make it desirable once more to a younger clientele.

Strong symbol of female emancipation

The spring/summer 2026 collection was not a complete surprise. Before its presentation, the brand piqued public curiosity by revealing an initial teaser. Last weekend, Chanel published a black and white portrait on its Instagram account showing the back, shoulders, and delicate nape of a brunette woman. Her bob cut inevitably evoked the figure of Gabrielle Chanel herself, who was often depicted with a similar bobbed hairstyle. This signalled a return to the brand's origins and paid homage to its founder.

By choosing to evoke the iconic bobbed hairstyle, Matthieu Blazy also revived a powerful symbol of female emancipation from the 1920s, a decade when cutting one's hair short was an act of rebellion. It is worth remembering that the quote, “a woman who cuts her hair is about to change her life,” is attributed to Gabrielle Chanel. This sentiment is particularly fitting for the occasion.

Finally, a discreet fan of feathers, which appeared to be a pair of earrings merging with the hair, added a playful touch to the image. This is also a typical feature of David Bailey, the English fashion photographer behind the campaign who helped revolutionise the image of women in the 1960s. The discreet elegance, minimalism, and non-conformism that often characterise Bailey's work clearly echo the style of Matthieu Blazy.

A successful gamble?

Expectations for Matthieu Blazy are high. Appointed in December 2024, the new creative director of fashion at Chanel must restore the grandeur of the illustrious French couture house and turn the page on the Karl Lagerfeld era, who led the label from 1983 to 2019. The challenge is even greater given the difficult economic climate for the luxury sector, which has not spared the Chanel group. The company reported a net profit of 3.4 billion dollars, down 28.2 percent in 2024 compared to 2023.

In appointing Matthieu Blazy, Chanel has chosen an artistic director with a solid track record whose work at Bottega Veneta helped the label increase its revenue. The collection he has just designed for the French house appears to be a direct continuation of his work for Bottega Veneta. It features the same creativity and apparent simplicity with a playful twist, but above all, an effortlessly wearable chic. This is precisely what is needed to propel Chanel into a new era.