Daniel Fletcher returns to LFW with collection inspired by late father

For his first London Fashion Week show since January 2019, Daniel Fletcher turned to his own heritage for inspiration, revealing a personal collection entangled with his own experiences with current affairs.

Entitled Before the Morning Comes, the touching line drew direct inspiration from the British designer's late father, who passed away at the end of 2021, driving Fletcher to infuse his personal life with his professional output. In this sense, for AW22, the collection came as a tribute to both Fletcher’s father and his own back catalogue, exhibited in the designer’s signature tailoring and stripe prints used throughout.

Pieces referenced ‘70’s music, shown in navy pinstripes and organza headpieces inspired by The Rolling Stones’ album cover, and Britain's heritage sports, evident through the selection of vintage-like football jerseys, stripped scarves and designs reminiscent of old school rugby kits. Workwear and school uniforms held a place among the genderbending line too, with tie silks utilised for shirts, military-style two-pieces and off-kilter belting referencing Fletcher’s past school days.

Also evident were references to the designer’s soon-to-be-revealed collaboration with luxury cognac house, Courvoisier. As guests to the show, which included the likes of Olympian Tom Daley and Henry Holland, sipped on the cognac’s signature cocktails, pieces that made their way down the runway also nodded to the drink. Bold oranges, pinks and cobalt blue hinted at the upcoming collaboration, displayed in paint-stroke prints and embroidered knitwear.

Likewise, sustainability played an important role for the Next in Fashion star, who favoured local seamstresses and tailors to work on his collection. Fletcher also continued to build upon the patchworking process that has previously marked its place in his past seasons, repurposing denim offcuts into two-piece suits and tailored attire.