Five highlights from Paris Men's Fashion Week
Paris - Jonathan Anderson's latest for Dior, Sarah Burton's debut menswear collection for Givenchy, and Willy Chavarria's Chicano-inspired offering are set to be among the highlights of Paris Fashion Week. The event kicks off on Tuesday.
Hybrid masculinity
For six days, around 70 brands will unveil their new menswear collections for the upcoming spring/summer season. The industry shake-ups of last year, which saw new creative directors take the helm at legendary houses like Chanel and Dior, are beginning to settle. Expectations are now focused on how these designers will establish their signature styles.
The current turbulent geopolitical climate may be reflected on the runways. “When social, cultural, and even political relationships become more complex, it always translates into a much more creative response,” explains Patrick Clark, fashion editor at GQ France, to AFP.
In his opinion, “there is a genuine desire among men to question the codes and techniques traditionally reserved for womenswear. These are now being incorporated and embraced within menswear.”
The result will be a fashion that moves towards an “emergent, more hybrid masculinity,” as seen in previous seasons. This includes more romantic, dandy-style masculine silhouettes.
Anderson in the spotlight
Jonathan Anderson will once again be in the spotlight with his third menswear collection for Dior. In January, he presented a collection that blended aristocratic and punk elements.
The 41-year-old Northern Irishman is considered one of fashion's prodigies and is renowned for his boundless creativity. He could once again dazzle with his improbable combinations.
“I like to throw ideas out randomly and see what works. I don't mind failing or making mistakes. Above all, I don't want to create anything banal,” he recently explained to the French newspaper Le Monde.
The show, scheduled for Wednesday at 2:30pm CET, has been moved forward to 9am CET due to the heatwave currently affecting France.
Alongside Anderson's Dior, the other most anticipated moment of the week will be the Louis Vuitton show on Tuesday. Pharrell Williams is expected to unleash his full creative genius for a spectacular, star-studded event.
New directions at Givenchy and Celine
British designer Sarah Burton will present her first menswear collection for Givenchy. The show, categorised as a “presentation”, comes almost two years after her appointment.
“We will see a lot of tailoring, many 3D garments, and pieces with sleeves…” predicts Marc Beaugé, editor of the French magazine L'Étiquette. He is referring to the designer known for her mastery of tailoring and for creating Kate Middleton's wedding dress.
Under the artistic direction of Michael Rider, Celine's show will be one of the most watched. The American designer returns to the house after a decade in its ateliers during the 2010s and will present his first menswear collection on Sunday.
At Hermès, following the departure of Véronique Nichanian after almost four decades leading the menswear collections, Saturday's designs will be handled by the in-house studio. This is in anticipation of Grace Wales Bonner's debut in January.
Activist Willy Chavarria
American designer of Mexican heritage, Willy Chavarria, is a name gaining prominence in Paris after his success in New York. He will be showing for the fourth time in the French capital.
In January, he presented a collection filled with impeccable tailoring and retro-inspired pieces in a show that was part film, part concert, and part runway. Last year, another presentation generated significant buzz when several tattooed men appeared kneeling, evoking images of prisons in El Salvador.
Chavarria is an outspoken activist and a defender of migrants and the LGBTQ cause. He often features well-known singers in his shows, such as Colombian J Balvin, Chilean Mon Laferte, and the Latin group Santos Bravos.
New talents
Among the celebrated brands, young emerging designers are also featured. Belgian designer Meryll Rogge, artistic director of the Italian brand Marni, will show her menswear collection in Paris under her own eponymous label. Her designs experiment with fabrics and blend masculine and feminine codes.
Japanese designer Soshi Otsuki, last year's winner of the prestigious LVMH Prize, will likely present his fluid suits inspired by Japanese tradition.
“The younger generations perfectly embody the ethos of creativity, authenticity, naturalness, and personal history that they integrate into their collections,” states Patrick Clark of GQ France.
Spanish designer Sonia Carrasco, with her signature exposed-seam suits, and Brazilian brand P_Andrade are also on the official schedule.
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