From 18th century to modern coquette: SS25 Bridal trends according to NY Bridal Week

New York Bridal Fashion Week (NYBFW) wrapped up its spring edition yesterday after a week of glitzy decadence in the Big Apple. While the sector is still seemingly riding on the return of weddings following a period of a pandemic-induced event drought, there was little in the way of “news” over the event’s duration. Yet, what was clear was the continued confidence designers showed in bridal.

One evidence of this was the return of Idan Cohen, who hadn’t taken part in NYBFW since 2019. Over his hiatus, the designer set about implementing a brand refresh, the results of which were unveiled in a 26-look runway show for two new lines, Idan and Idan Atelier. For others, the fashion week was a time to celebrate and look back on a long-period of growth. This rang true for Claire Pettibone, who used her participation as an opportunity to throw a party honouring the opening of a Manhattan store, where she houses her eponymous brand next to those that do not yet have much access to the New York consumer.

There was also a selection of new names on the schedule too. Spanish-born Alejandra Alonso Rojas took her first steps into bridal with her debut ‘Blank Canvas’ collection, inspired by her grandmother’s journey for a wedding dress. The concept allows customers to slightly adjust the brand’s styles to align to their own desires. CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist Tanner Fletcher was another to make a category debut, expanding its custom bridal into a fully-fledged genderfluid collection that hopes to break industry norms.

This mindset could also be seen throughout many of the collections of varying participants, and even saw highly traditional styles reminiscent of eras past cast into a new modernised light for the contemporary bride. FashionUnited takes a deep dive into some of the stand out trends for NYBFW for the spring/summer 2025 season.

Coquette bride

This edition saw the currently popular ‘coquette’ fashion trend extend its grasp into the bridal market, bringing with it its romantic, feminine playfulness that was infused into a variety of gowns. This could be seen in puffy sleeves, delicate bow detailing, ruffled trims and gingham chiffon, among other elements, encapsulating the ‘girlycore’ aesthetic for a new crowd.

Welcome to the 50s

Vintage-esque designs held a firm place in the rankings of BFW and one era that particularly seemed to flourish was that of the 50s. Ankle-length, A-line dresses were having a major moment this season and were elevated through added modernised details, such as exaggerated bows or pleated hemlines.

Decade of decadence

Onto the 80s now, and nothing screamed ‘decade of decadence’ more than the influx of overtly puffy sleeves and extravagant embellishments. The voluminous gowns were balanced out by silky materials or removable details, providing today’s bride with more adjustable or on-trend options.

Flowing sculptures

Sculptural shapes moved through many collections, yet in vastly different forms. There did seem to be a particular tendency, however, to opt for overflowing waistlines constructed in a flowing way that provided depth to the skirt. These were sometimes enhanced by 3D florals or balanced out with similarly sculptural bustiers.

Oversized back bows

Bows have been at the height of popularity when it comes to hair accessories. However, as evidenced by this season of BFW, it appears that this embellishment detail is now imperative to garments themselves. As such, exaggerated iterations in oversized forms were plastered to the backs of gowns, bringing a touch of drama to otherwise minimalist silhouettes.

18th century throwback

Another era to have gotten the contemporary treatment was none other than the 18th century. Designers took it upon themselves to adapt the period’s pannier design – side hoops – into more practical shapes, yet with a similar impact. The bulging silhouette of the skirts contrasted more fitted corset-like bustiers that pointed low and sharp below the waist.

Embossed florals

In place of the standard bridal lace, embossed materials held precedence for this season, and could particularly be seen in the formulation of floral patterns. As such, dresses appeared highly texturised from head to toe, with the technique applied to everything from chiffon to mesh to more cotton-like materials.

Casual minis

Aligning with the trends of either swapping into a more pared down gown for the reception or opting for a casual look for the entirety of a wedding, designers were on hand to offer up an expansive choice of minis regardless of the purpose. Many of these took the shape of layered, puffy Babydoll silhouettes, while others were more structured in their appearance, combining form-fitting tailoring with rigid skirting.

The scarf

When it came to accessories, the silky scarf stood above them all. In its simplest form, the piece most often came in a coordinating material to the dress and was draped over the beck, from the front to the back before trailing down to the floor.

Subtle colour infusion

Pops of colour have been slowly seeping their way into bridal trends over recent years, and this will seemingly continue into the SS25 season. However, in place of full-colour gowns and dramatic contrasts, many designers instead opted for a more subtle infusion of colour, intertwining pastels into floral embroidery or prints, adding just a slight dash of alternative tones.