Future Snoops’ material and textile expert Julia Skliarova has presented a detailed outlook on the material sourcing landscape for Fall/Winter 2026/27, framing the season around the industry’s accelerating structural shifts. According to Skliarova, regenerative strategies, circular material flows, agile sourcing models and the growing demand for adaptable, multifunctional textiles will continue to guide development across fibre innovation, surface design and product longevity. Together, these priorities underpin the four key material directions shaping the season.

Material Sourcing Trends for Fall / Winter 2026/27

1. Tough & Tender: Emotional Depth Meets Experimental Surface

“Tough & Tender” responds to social unrest and future anxiety with an aesthetic that embraces discomfort, emotional depth and a darker romanticism. Instead of treating goth and punk as purely visual references, the direction draws on their underlying values—authenticity, raw emotion and connection—to build a sensorial narrative. This creates a refined reinterpretation of indulgence that blurs the boundaries between formal and casual dressing.

The colour story centres on “energetic darkness”: shadowy purples, sombre greens and smoky greys, grounded by truffle and umber neutrals, with off-white and true black as sharp contrasts. Accents like elemental pink and pomegranate add a slow glow rather than loud brightness.

Material-wise, the look hinges on cinematic glamour and tactile distortion. Key developments include:

• Fluid satins, cotton-satins and refined tailoring twills with contorted or manipulated constructions

• Bruised, lightly peach-finished silks and lyocells for intimates and loungewear

• Raised scaling, pronounced twill textures and worked leather for a tougher dimension

• Oil-slick ombrés and colour-gradient applications that blur day–evening distinctions

Outerwear leans into bio-based synthetics and leather alternatives, with gummy waterproofs, ripstops and nanoweight quilts that appear almost weightless. Decoration evolves traditional “rebellious” codes: corded lace, mesh-based guipure, encased hardware and chainmail details are used to create armour-like effects, while distressed shirting, twisted ribs and monochrome overprints push tailoring towards a smarter, street-informed aesthetic.

2. Functional Flair: Joyful Utility and Customisable Hybrids

“Functional Flair” emerges as a response to the algorithm-driven uniformity shaping contemporary aesthetics, offering consumers a chance to reclaim creative autonomy. The direction champions spontaneity, hybrid forms and modular styling, encouraging everyday dressing as an expressive and joyful act.

The palette mixes brights, pastels and neutrals in offbeat combinations—cobalt and tomato red alongside wilted petal, frosted mint and “in-between” tones. Familiar hues like basic brown and composure blue are reframed in new contexts to support seasonless design.

The core material message:

• Utility with built-in customisation: smooth tailoring, sturdy canvases, corduroys and bonded laces updated with adjustable details, panel inserts and flexible fastenings

• Patchwork as a design signature, informed by deadstock and offcut recycling—refined rather than chaotic, with carefully balanced colour and texture

• Technical jerseys and active fabrics enhanced with ruching, splicing and peekaboo elements, moving easily between performance, leisure and partywear

Artisanal craft is central here. Crochet, macramé, interlaced suede and leather are used to create expressive yet wearable surfaces. Resale culture and vintage references influence both fabric design and styling, particularly in menswear, where classic shirting and suiting are layered with decorative, category-fluid elements.

3. Still Power: Quiet Comfort and Understated Performance

“Still Power” reflects a growing desire for stability and conscious consumption, favouring timeless materials, thoughtful details and wardrobe solutions designed to calm and refocus the mind. The direction aligns with rising under-consumption, “micro-retirements” and a backlash against hustle culture, centring on comfort-led fabrics with seamless or discreet functionality that support slower, more intentional living without sacrificing performance.

Calm, resetting hues dominate: composure blue, emotive grey, pale heather, eggshell and gently warming neutrals. Touches of sentimental yellow and tender peach carry over a hint of summer light, supporting trans-seasonal wardrobes.

Key material directions:

• Soft, cosy textures—bouclé, brushed and napped finishes, needle-punched quilts, eyelash tweeds and fleeces—that feel slightly imperfect and lived-in

• Premium, traceable fibres such as cashmere, merino and alpaca, combined with naturally hydrophobic fillers and non-toxic coatings

• Refined technicals: superfine knits, sheer meshes, breathable shirtings and windproof drills in matte, crisp constructions

Silhouettes rely on smooth layering and fluid yet compact fabrics like double-knit jerseys, crepe-back satins and fine-gauge suiting weights. Craft details remain subtle: simplified openwork, hand-rendered folk-style embroidery and corded tapes replace heavy fringing, adding quiet romance without compromising low-maintenance wear.

4. Future Heritage: Raw Nature, Protective Textures and “Future Antiques”

“Future Heritage” emerges as a response to rapid technological acceleration and digital saturation, prompting a renewed appreciation for heritage, continuity and the human element within design. The direction approaches the future with “sentimental optimism,” valuing materials that preserve human connection while embracing innovation. It blends sustainability, heritage and forward-thinking design into a unified narrative.

Future Heritage is the most overtly narrative-driven of the four trends. It responds to digital overload and climate anxiety with a focus on heritage, grassroots action and nature-first storytelling.

The palette feels almost archaeological: Stone Age-inspired greys, fired earth, pear skin and macadamia sit alongside tinted neutrals like bulbous yellow and pale heather. Rich reds and deep greens, from olive brine to steeped sage, add warmth and a sense of wilderness.

Material direction focuses on:

• Protective, rugged constructions: fisherman ribs, melange wovens, stonewashed suede, leather and utility denim canvases

• Textured, washed and overprinted finishes that echo erosion, camouflage and weathering

• Nature-first developments and alternative fibres that embed sustainability into the narrative

There is also a mystical medieval influence—seen in engraved motifs, layered structures and “future antique” surface treatments. The result is a material story that honours cultural continuity while leaning into innovation.

Sources:
- Future Snoops webinar FW26 material sourcing trends
- AI tools were used to assist in the writing of this article.