Gothic aesthetic: a dominant trend
Corsets, radical cuts and long coats are progressively conquering the streets of capital cities. Inspired by the gothic aesthetic, fashion is currently leaning towards a darker side. This shift reflects a certain disenchantment and expresses a rejection of established norms. Here's a breakdown.
Origins
This renewed enthusiasm for gothic fashion, originating from the punk movement of the 1970s, dates back to 2024. It gained momentum with the first season of the series "Wednesday", launched in 2022. Actress Jenna Ortega, who plays Wednesday Addams, has become a fashion icon, sporting gothic-inspired outfits on red carpets.
Other cultural productions have also contributed to the return of gothic to the fashion scene. Examples include Robert Eggers' film "Nosferatu" (2024), starring Lily-Rose Depp; Tim Burton's remake of "Beetlejuice" (2024); and Tish Weinstock's book "How to Be a Goth" (Radar), released in October 2024. The recent Palais Galliera exhibition on designer Rick Owens, an iconic figure of the underground and a major reference for gothic enthusiasts, has also influenced the trend.
Gothic inspiration today encompasses several variations. The list includes "boho goth", which combines gothic style with the free and natural spirit of bohemianism; "Gothic Western", which blends the romanticism of Johnny Cash with a rebellious and dark spirit; and "goth glam", which, as its name suggests, combines glamour with the darkness of gothic. These options allow the trend to be adapted to multiple market targets.
Evolution
For autumn/winter 2026-27, Première Vision experts speak of a new kind of gothic trend: "New Dynasties". The silhouette will be highly radical, with the centrepiece being a dramatic, sculptural, ample coat, often in black or deep red.
According to PV experts, "New Dynasties resonates with the new fascinations for dystopian universes, metaphors for a world in crisis." This theme is also found in the beauty world, embodied by vibrant, even bioluminescent pigments and sharp make-up.
The launch of the Boloria brand by Olivier Theyskens, a figure of romantic gothic aesthetics, is also expected to renew the genre. The first collection is scheduled for 2026.
Figures
According to Klarna, the payments platform, the Goth Girl trend is booming and is expected to continue. The company has observed strong performance in gothic jewellery: plus 85 percent for cross-shaped rings, plus 69 percent for bat-shaped rings and plus 120 percent for cross earrings. Ready-to-wear is not to be outdone: plus 43 percent for corsets, plus 86 percent for fishnet bodysuits, plus 90 percent for velvet tops and plus 134 percent for coats in the same material. Finally, black lipstick is a real hit, with plus 738 percent in one year.
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