Gucci champions street style with shoulder-slung bum bags, bare midriffs and double G thongs

The intentions and sentiments are good. “This first show of mine for Gucci introduces a universe of people, archetypes, consumers and dress codes destined to inspire my creative language for the future. It is a beginning, but already a mature one, full of intention,” Demna wrote in a letter on show day.

However, it is well known that numbers are what truly matter. In these complicated times, to put it mildly, sales figures are paramount. Gucci's recent history, following incredible season-on-season growth, has come to a halt. In 2025, accounting for approximately 40 percent of sales, Gucci remains the primary indicator of the Kering group's performance. In 2025, the house reported a 19 percent decline on a like-for-like basis.

The logo and the brand's history, while important and significant, are not enough on their own. The creative direction and the label's language must learn to resonate once more with both its established and new clientele. This new audience is increasingly less brand-loyal and more distracted by countless other attractions. A strong, clear identity is essential. Analyses and reports on the luxury market indicate that consumers are unforgiving. This is especially true for brands that believe their name, history and logo are enough for an easy win.

Demna: “this collection is founded on a principle of pragmatism: to create desirable and authentic objects”

Certainly, Kate Moss returning to the catwalk at 52 years old makes a statement. She closed Demna's highly anticipated debut show for Gucci during Milan Fashion Week. Moss wore a sparkling black dress with a deep, plunging back.

The effect was amplified as the neckline revealed a double G thong in white gold, studded with ten carats of diamonds. The sensuality of a seamless minidress in pure white hosiery fabric, worn with a femme fatale attitude, also contributed to the effect. This all contributes to the brand's embrace of diverse dressing styles. It is a politically correct approach and a sure way to appeal to a broad audience.

Jackets were styled with skirts, legging-trousers and trousers. They “effortlessly transition from the office to the bar and everything in between,” as the press release noted.

“This collection, and my vision for Gucci more broadly, is founded on a principle of pragmatism: to create desirable and authentic objects that can accompany different people, enrich their daily lives and make them feel good,” explained the brand's creative director. “Products that exist and establish themselves for what they are, without the need for pseudo-intellectual justifications.” In a few months, luxury giant Kering will assess the desirability of these items. It will then determine whether its flagship brand is back on a growth trajectory.

Meanwhile, the brand's soft and fluid tailoring is infused with “a streetwear sensibility,” the note continued. On the catwalk, impeccable, fitted suits were followed by light-wash jeans. These were paired with extremely tight men's T-shirts, highlighting muscular physiques. Sheath dresses clung to the body, leaving little to the imagination. Logo bum bags were worn slung over the shoulder. One model even paused, as if on the street, to reply to a WhatsApp message. In essence, the catwalk fully embraced street style. However, it still featured the house's iconic bags, tailored suits and just the right amount of colour.

The Gucci Bamboo 1947 was reinterpreted with a sleeker volume. It features a “bamboo” handle crafted from assembled segments of flexible leather. Archival minaudières were elongated to accommodate smartphones and other essentials. The Manhattan, Demna's first trainer for Gucci, combines an ultra-minimalist basketball silhouette with the slip-on convenience of a loafer.

The collection also featured leggings fused with trousers; jackets and tops integrated into a single, ultra-fitted garment; and footwear that merged leather shoes and trainers into a unique silhouette. These shoes had the aerodynamic quality of a sports car, with very long, pronounced toes.

This article was translated to English using an AI tool.

FashionUnited uses AI language tools to speed up translating (news) articles and proofread the translations to improve the end result. This saves our human journalists time they can spend doing research and writing original articles. Articles translated with the help of AI are checked and edited by a human desk editor prior to going online. If you have questions or comments about this process email us at info@fashionunited.com